Collection of Rotax Forum Feeds

[Newshound]

My 914 vibrates alarmingly at about 4800 when throttle is opened and load is on. Does not want to increase revs (thank goodness). Runs perfectly at lower revs and got me home !

Motor 108hrs.

New plugs, dual ignition OK, both fuel pumps OK, fuel pressure OK..NOT the prop.

I suspect a carburetor problem.

Any clues please ?

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[Newshound]

hello everyone !!

i have an issue with a uls engine we perform everything new fltwheel,new starter,balence carb,soft start,you name it. the only thing i dindnt chage is the sparg clutch my consern is i never feel that the sprag clutch was slipping i feel over the past cltch was slipping and you can ear it slipping and on that case it doesnt seem to slip it violently stop the rotation like the hd starter can turn the engine its crasy

if anyone know about that problem let me know

regards stephane

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[Newshound]

hello everyone !!

i have an issue with a uls engine we perform everything new fltwheel,new starter,balence carb,soft start,you name it. the only thing i dindnt chage is the sparg clutch my consern is i never feel that the sprag clutch was slipping i feel over the past cltch was slipping and you can ear it slipping and on that case it doesnt seem to slip it violently stop the rotation like the hd starter can turn the engine its crasy

if anyone know about that problem let me know

regards stephane

More...

[Newshound]

Here's one.

912ULS installed in aircraft in 2003,a fixed wing Sky Ranger. Engine has 542 hours. Prop was pitched to give 5200 at full throttle. The owner went for the $25 hamburger with a friend. After lunch during the take off for home the engine was only able to achieve 4800 RPM. They went ahead and flew home as there was enough power to climb out and get back to home field 60 miles away.

I just performed the following: Compression check - all four cylinders at 85/87. Checked all the spark plug caps at between 5k and 5.5k ohms. Checked all the secondary coils, all were within specified resistance and replaced all spark plugs with NGK DCPR8EIX gapped at .027. Balanced the carbs with a digital balancer right on at 4000RPM as well as at idle. The picture attached shows

the number 3 top plug on the right and the number 1 top plug on the left. Why would the #1 plug be so sooty? Why would the RPM suddenly drop 500RPM. I have been scratching my head on this one and after testing everything more than once can't come up with any reason the engine shouldn't be running perfect and pulling normal RPM.

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[Newshound]

Here's one.

912ULS installed in aircraft in 2003,a fixed wing Sky Ranger. Engine has 542 hours. Prop was pitched to give 5200 at full throttle. The owner went for the $25 hamburger with a friend. After lunch during the take off for home the engine was only able to achieve 4800 RPM. They went ahead and flew home as there was enough power to climb out and get back to home field 60 miles away.

I just performed the following: Compression check - all four cylinders at 85/87. Checked all the spark plug caps at between 5k and 5.5k ohms. Checked all the secondary coils, all were within specified resistance and replaced all spark plugs with NGK DCPR8EIX gapped at .027. Balanced the carbs with a digital balancer right on at 4000RPM as well as at idle. The picture attached shows

the number 3 top plug on the right and the number 1 top plug on the left. Why would the #1 plug be so sooty? Why would the RPM suddenly drop 500RPM. I have been scratching my head on this one and after testing everything more than once can't come up with any reason the engine shouldn't be running perfect and pulling normal RPM.

More...

[Newshound]

I've just fitted a water/oil heat exchanger instead of the oil/air cooler.

On a 5°C day it took 4 mins 20 secs to get the oil from 5°C to 50°C with the engine running at about 2100 rpm.

The oil temperature follows the water temperature rise but lags about 3 to 4°C behind.

If you are like me and live in a cold climate I'd recommend this.

Mike G

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[Newshound]

It happens like clockwork. If I leave the plane for more than a week in hot weather, battery charged or not, it won't start. It's not flooded. Every single time it does this, I can come back the next day and it will start and run absolutely fine. Yesterday I had to use full choke and full throttle to get it to turn over.

The only theory that makes sense is that fuel is evaporating all the way to the intake of the fuel pump. Cranking it seems to start a trickle of fuel, which the following day seems to be enough to get the pump working. I'm sure an electric boost pump will fix this.

This is very frustrating, as I have to spend time cranking the engine the day before I need to use it. Multiple flights in one day, and hot starts are not a problem.

Happens with mogas and 100LL mixture. I don't run 100% 100LL (it's almost $8/gal at my home airport)

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[Newshound]

I've just fitted a water/oil heat exchanger instead of the oil/air cooler.

On a 5°C day it took 4 mins 20 secs to get the oil from 5°C to 50°C with the engine running at about 2100 rpm.

The oil temperature follows the water temperature rise but lags about 3 to 4°C behind.

If you are like me and live in a cold climate I'd recommend this.

Mike G

More...

[Newshound]

It happens like clockwork. If I leave the plane for more than a week in hot weather, battery charged or not, it won't start. It's not flooded. Every single time it does this, I can come back the next day and it will start and run absolutely fine. Yesterday I had to use full choke and full throttle to get it to turn over.

The only theory that makes sense is that fuel is evaporating all the way to the intake of the fuel pump. Cranking it seems to start a trickle of fuel, which the following day seems to be enough to get the pump working. I'm sure an electric boost pump will fix this.

This is very frustrating, as I have to spend time cranking the engine the day before I need to use it. Multiple flights in one day, and hot starts are not a problem.

Happens with mogas and 100LL mixture. I don't run 100% 100LL (it's almost $8/gal at my home airport)

More...

[Newshound]

Hi Guys,

I have just installed used 912UL on my PPC.

All wires and ground are correctly connected.

When turning the kill mag to off, the engine sometimes stop but sometimes doesn't!.

When the engine doesn't stop I need to unplugged the lower CDI connector and plug it back after that the engine again is stopping but one out of 10's off's it will keep running.

I think there is a problem with the lower CDI, but asking for your advise:

1.Is there a different between the two CDI?

2.Do anyone familiar with this kind of problem/

3>can you come up with solutions or any Idea's?

Thank you all in advanced.

Nir

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[Newshound]

Hi Guys,

I have just installed used 912UL on my PPC.

All wires and ground are correctly connected.

When turning the kill mag to off, the engine sometimes stop but sometimes doesn't!.

When the engine doesn't stop I need to unplugged the lower CDI connector and plug it back after that the engine again is stopping but one out of 10's off's it will keep running.

I think there is a problem with the lower CDI, but asking for your advise:

1.Is there a different between the two CDI?

2.Do anyone familiar with this kind of problem/

3>can you come up with solutions or any Idea's?

Thank you all in advanced.

Nir

More...

[Newshound]

OK, some issues here I'm hoping you can help me solve

I have a brand new Rotax 582 on my T500 Thruster, the engine has just turned over 25 hours on the clock. It is driving a 68" 3 blade Brolga prop with 12 degree pitch blocks through a "B" reduction box at 2.58. Now this engine has always tended to overheat from run-in on. I have a hard time keeping the temps below 80 degrees indicated on a brand new VDO gauge connected to a brand new sensor in the engine head, all connected together with the wiring that came with the unit. So, unless the new gauge is faulty, I think the temp gauge is reading correct. I will, however, double check this next time I'm at the airfield by sitting the sensor in a pot of water and heat it up. I'll cross reference the temp gauge reading with a thermometer. I have only just pulled the prop[ apart to check the pitch, and I must say I was surprised to see such a fine pitch. I was expecting something near the high side of the range, around 16 degrees. I thought the overheating would be caused by too coarse a pitch setting and I could reduce the over temp reading by reducing the pitch - but not so. Another complication for you to digest; I have never been able to get full (6800) revs from the 582, either on the ground or when flying around. Most I've got is 6200RPM, so again I thought this would be due to a coarse pitch setting. Now I have to rethink. The EGT readings are identical at about 1100 on the gauge when at 6000RPM, so I reckon the carbies are right. I checked the barrel slides in the carbies and they are opening right up at full throttle.

So I have 2 issues - an overheating engine, and an engine that is not achieving full revs.

Where do I go from here learned forumites?

Pud

More...

[Newshound]

OK, some issues here I'm hoping you can help me solve

I have a brand new Rotax 582 on my T500 Thruster, the engine has just turned over 25 hours on the clock. It is driving a 68" 3 blade Brolga prop with 12 degree pitch blocks through a "B" reduction box at 2.58. Now this engine has always tended to overheat from run-in on. I have a hard time keeping the temps below 80 degrees indicated on a brand new VDO gauge connected to a brand new sensor in the engine head, all connected together with the wiring that came with the unit. So, unless the new gauge is faulty, I think the temp gauge is reading correct. I will, however, double check this next time I'm at the airfield by sitting the sensor in a pot of water and heat it up. I'll cross reference the temp gauge reading with a thermometer. I have only just pulled the prop[ apart to check the pitch, and I must say I was surprised to see such a fine pitch. I was expecting something near the high side of the range, around 16 degrees. I thought the overheating would be caused by too coarse a pitch setting and I could reduce the over temp reading by reducing the pitch - but not so. Another complication for you to digest; I have never been able to get full (6800) revs from the 582, either on the ground or when flying around. Most I've got is 6200RPM, so again I thought this would be due to a coarse pitch setting. Now I have to rethink. The EGT readings are identical at about 1100 on the gauge when at 6000RPM, so I reckon the carbies are right. I checked the barrel slides in the carbies and they are opening right up at full throttle.

So I have 2 issues - an overheating engine, and an engine that is not achieving full revs.

Where do I go from here learned forumites?

Pud

More...

[Newshound]

Hi guys,

after flying my sonex witch was equiped with a aerovee Vw engine and later on converted it into a 120hp turbo efi engine, i figured out the only way to gain better take-off and climb performance was to use a geared engine and a CS prop. So i purchased a 912UL-F3 engine and started fabricating a one of engine mount. I then started on welding a 4-1 turbo manifold and a injection intake system. I decided to go with and intercooler to cooler the intake air on hot days.

Im finally gettig ready for ground tests, only mounting of oilcooler and some minor details, and the transformation is complete.

For thoose of you who might be intrested to see my conversion, heres a link. You can scroll thorug 7 pages, and theres tons of pictures. The Norwegian wrighting migh be hard to understand, but the pictures pretty much tells it all..

Thomas

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[Newshound]

Hi, when i push a 914 turbo that i am working on into turbo it loses power and the fuel gage fluctuate. I changed the fuel filters,cleaned the small filters in the fuel pumps and cleaned the carbs but the problems still exist. I have bypassed the 3 way solenoid between the airbox and the carbs then the problem seem to dissapear but only when the engine is at normal to limit running temps.

More...

[Newshound]

Hi guys,

after flying my sonex witch was equiped with a aerovee Vw engine and later on converted it into a 120hp turbo efi engine, i figured out the only way to gain better take-off and climb performance was to use a geared engine and a CS prop. So i purchased a 912UL-F3 engine and started fabricating a one of engine mount. I then started on welding a 4-1 turbo manifold and a injection intake system. I decided to go with and intercooler to cooler the intake air on hot days.

Im finally gettig ready for ground tests, only mounting of oilcooler and some minor details, and the transformation is complete.

For thoose of you who might be intrested to see my conversion, heres a link. You can scroll thorug 7 pages, and theres tons of pictures. The Norwegian wrighting migh be hard to understand, but the pictures pretty much tells it all..

Thomas

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More...

[Newshound]

Hi, when i push a 914 turbo that i am working on into turbo it loses power and the fuel gage fluctuate. I changed the fuel filters,cleaned the small filters in the fuel pumps and cleaned the carbs but the problems still exist. I have bypassed the 3 way solenoid between the airbox and the carbs then the problem seem to dissapear but only when the engine is at normal to limit running temps.

More...

[Newshound]

Usually it's the little things and unlikely things that cause us grief with a engine issue. Our engines are mechanical things and can have issues at times. Humans built them so they can have problems, just like our bodies. It's also hard here on a forum with only email to always diagnose a problem without actually being there in person and having all the information at one time at hand and diagnostic tools. This is why doctors and nurses rarely try to diagnose something over a phone. Having a good understanding of each engine system and having the manuals on hand and then always start to work a problem from the beginning of the system all the way through to its end point is the best way to diagnose a problem. "A" to "Z" approach. It's hard here because we don't always have all the info and some may not understand some engine systems as well as others. So some of the group's comments may seem basic, but we must have a corner stone so to speak to get started and to start eliminating the most common issues that many of us have noted in the past. There are of course many times something small and insignificant may cause a problem and it may be hard to find. Just like when you go see the doctor. You walk into his office and everything can be wrong with you, but by getting a good history from the patient and performing certain test the list of possibilities becomes much shorter and or the problem resolved. Finding problems with our bodies can be a challenge just like our engines and may lead to frustration, but all of us here on the forum are willing to help, seek out ideas and bring your engine issue to a resolution, plus we all get an education along the way.

Since no one has seen everything then that's why we all may have a little different slant or approach on an engine issue.

To sum this up please be patient when you do your engine trouble shooting, be patient with our ideas and always start at the beginning and work through to the end of each system and don't jump around because you will miss problems and take 4 times longer to find it.

Like someone posted on another thread here:

All for one and one for all!

We're here because we want to be and we like to help.

Time to fly and many in the world will never get the chance to explore the same as many of us with our own plane, so enjoy the days when we do get that chance in the sky.

More...

[Newshound]

Usually it's the little things and unlikely things that cause us grief with a engine issue. Our engines are mechanical things and can have issues at times. Humans built them so they can have problems, just like our bodies. It's also hard here on a forum with only email to always diagnose a problem without actually being there in person and having all the information at one time at hand and diagnostic tools. This is why doctors and nurses rarely try to diagnose something over a phone. Having a good understanding of each engine system and having the manuals on hand and then always start to work a problem from the beginning of the system all the way through to its end point is the best way to diagnose a problem. "A" to "Z" approach. It's hard here because we don't always have all the info and some may not understand some engine systems as well as others. So some of the group's comments may seem basic, but we must have a corner stone so to speak to get started and to start eliminating the most common issues that many of us have noted in the past. There are of course many times something small and insignificant may cause a problem and it may be hard to find. Just like when you go see the doctor. You walk into his office and everything can be wrong with you, but by getting a good history from the patient and performing certain test the list of possibilities becomes much shorter and or the problem resolved. Finding problems with our bodies can be a challenge just like our engines and may lead to frustration, but all of us here on the forum are willing to help, seek out ideas and bring your engine issue to a resolution, plus we all get an education along the way.

Since no one has seen everything then that's why we all may have a little different slant or approach on an engine issue.

To sum this up please be patient when you do your engine trouble shooting, be patient with our ideas and always start at the beginning and work through to the end of each system and don't jump around because you will miss problems and take 4 times longer to find it.

Like someone posted on another thread here:

All for one and one for all!

We're here because we want to be and we like to help.

Time to fly and many in the world will never get the chance to explore the same as many of us with our own plane, so enjoy the days when we do get that chance in the sky.

More...

[Newshound]

I have a blue head 582 on my Flight star which has 222 hrs on it. Runs great with good comp [120#] on each cyl. Here is my question I have to use a leaner setting on the mag end cyl. to get my egt temp to run together at cruise rpm [5000] about 1100 degrees. Plugs look good have the front needle set in the 3rd grove, mag end is in the 2nd groove. I had a 618 a few years ago with the same deal. Am I concerned about nothing? Thanks Lynn

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[Newshound]

I have a blue head 582 on my Flight star which has 222 hrs on it. Runs great with good comp [120#] on each cyl. Here is my question I have to use a leaner setting on the mag end cyl. to get my egt temp to run together at cruise rpm [5000] about 1100 degrees. Plugs look good have the front needle set in the 3rd grove, mag end is in the 2nd groove. I had a 618 a few years ago with the same deal. Am I concerned about nothing? Thanks Lynn

More...

[Newshound]

Hi,

We have just experianced the dreaded crankcase failure on our Tecnam Bravo 2005 year model.

Engine hours 857. The first indication was drops of oil on the hanger floor. After 2 hours flying it became a major leak and a crack became evident as per the photo.Pilots should be aware that if the leak becomes major crankcase pressure can fall followed by crankcase oil failing to return to the tank and eventual oil stavation. We have fitted a brand new engine as repair became uneconomical.

My home country is New Zealand

Dave Jennings

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[Newshound]

Hi,

We have just experianced the dreaded crankcase failure on our Tecnam Bravo 2005 year model.

Engine hours 857. The first indication was drops of oil on the hanger floor. After 2 hours flying it became a major leak and a crack became evident as per the photo.Pilots should be aware that if the leak becomes major crankcase pressure can fall followed by crankcase oil failing to return to the tank and eventual oil stavation. We have fitted a brand new engine as repair became uneconomical.

My home country is New Zealand

Dave Jennings

More...

[Newshound]

I cut my oil filter open and found lots of black specks in it. They are not magnetic. They look like hard black groundup plastic particles.

Any ideas anyone?

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[Newshound]

I cut my oil filter open and found lots of black specks in it. They are not magnetic. They look like hard black groundup plastic particles.

Any ideas anyone?

More...