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Rectifier / Regulator replacement


sheridan9sc
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Friends,

Had to replace our rectifier/regulator at about 530 hours. Dynon display of battery status dropped to below 13v with the engine running, charging fuse was okay, Jim indicated that this was not uncommon with this engine. Lockwood immediately responded from memory with Part #965 349 - confirming the frequency of replacement ($175 plus shipping). Replacement is really a two-person job - one in the engine compartment and one on the cockpit side of the firewall. The attached picture shows all the wires attached to the two bolts on the inside of the firewall (middle of the picture). Without taking out the Dynon display, it is helpful to have a shorter partner/contortionist who can work behind the instrument panel!

David

 Recitifier inner firewall leads.jpg

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Hi David and All,

I too replaced my rectifier, at around 230 hours if I remember correctly. One person and a contortion artist was necessary. I did not think of it at the time ... dah! ... though, at a later date with the Dynon unscrewed and eased forward I could see easy and straight forward access to the back of the rectifier's attachment screws. If I need to replace the rectifier in the future the Dynon will be eased out of the way.

Don

 

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  • 5 years later...

B&C Specialty has a replacement regulator that has an identical shape/size and mounting hole width and uses the same plug. Based on their reputation it has a much higher quality than the original Zenith Part. It costs a little more but is probably worth not having to replace it for life of the ship.  www.bandc.com

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On 8/8/2022 at 6:02 AM, Dave McConeghey said:

B&C Specialty has a replacement regulator that has an identical shape/size and mounting hole width and uses the same plug. Based on their reputation it has a much higher quality than the original Zenith Part. It costs a little more but is probably worth not having to replace it for life of the ship.  www.bandc.com

@Dave McConeghey Which regulator did you use - the AVC1 or LR3D? Its not clear what the difference is but the AVC1 appears the recommended for Rotax.

https://bandc.com/product/avc1-advanced-voltage-controller-14v-homebuilt/#installation-kit

Thanks.

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