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Touring Motor Gliders Association (TMGA)


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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/29/2015 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    I just completed the ferry flight of my SF28A motorglider to its new owner, from Oregon to Georgia. It took more than a week, but it was fun. I have posted the trip report with pictures on my web site www.caro-engineering.com under "News". [Editor's Note: Report is also attached here for easy reference, but everyone should check-out Sonja's website when they get a chance. For those that haven't been following she has designed and built her own motorglider the Caro 1 MG and she is posting flight test results.] Sonja's 2016 Trek OR to GA.pdf
  2. 2 points
    Yes, there is hope for us wimps. I am 5'7", 230 lbs. and 73 years old and yes I have problems opening and closing the wings so I built a simple lever system and it is very doable now. It consists of a 10' carbon tube (what I had from an old delta hang glider) two wing shaped plywood pieces, a couple ratchet straps and two 25 lb. bar bell weights. The system reduces the lift weight from 30 lbs at the wing tip to about half that. My concern was what if it should slip while in the vertical position? I glued a rubberized material to the surface next to the wing for protection of the wing but when the ratchet straps are tightened nothing moves. The second issue was how far out could I go and not hit the ground when in the vertical position? Further than I thought but a quick measurement on the first lift answered the question and I have sense put stops on the tube so when I mount it no further measurement are required. Steve R.
  3. 2 points
    Pipistrel Sinus, Virus, Virus SW available as S-LSA, Factory Built Experimental, or Approved 51% Kit (Amateur Built); Taurus is available as pure glider, Rotax Self Launch, or Electric; Apis single seat - new orders ship in approximately 6 months. Now taking Deposits for Panthera 4 seat Retractable 200 knot on 210 hp, 10 gph. Certification complete in 2017. Pricing for new aircraft start at under $100,000, delivered. Call Rand (813) 774-212
  4. 2 points
  5. 1 point
    This is a complete distraction from the number one problem with the Phoenix Motorglider: Not enough production. The existing Phoenix design is great. The factory's resources need to be focused on building more aircraft, not these kinds of enhancements.
  6. 1 point
    I've never had a gasket look that bad on any car or aircraft I've owned! I suggest you order a new cap (0.9 Bar) from California Power Systems or Lockwood: if the gaskets gone bad, maybe other things aren't quite right. At $80 it's horribly expensive, but maybe there is a good reason for that. Also, it may not be possible to put in a new gasket without major effort.
  7. 1 point

    From the album: Ted's Stuff

    © tedgrussing photography © 2020

  8. 1 point
    Another way to get educated is to go to the next gathering, when there are usually 4-5 types of touring motor-gliders on site with owners who will talk to you endlessly about them. Not certain when the next one will be, but it's a good place to see them.
  9. 1 point
    Search Elfin 20.ex for the latest (soon to be flying) hybrid electric touring motor glider from Germany. 50:1 side-by-side Electric self-launch with hybrid option for long range touring.
  10. 1 point
    An easy compilation is viewable by going to the menus indicated by: About > TMG Compilation
  11. 1 point
    It is admittedly difficult and also scary because (I have always assumed, at least) if you ever drop one then that’s the end of that airframe. As a CFI I have taught a few people how to do it as safely as possible. Straight into the wind, of course, and always with the mains chocked. And you can’t have ambiguity at the top, you have to commit to it going over. And dry hands, of course, and I’ve considered using sticky mechanics gloves. When training, I put huge wedge pads inboard and a spotter outboard. As a sailor, my first thought was to “rig a preventer,” but there’s no good attachment point. It’s a big like swinging up onto a horse. Very hard to do the first time. You can call me if you want. P.S.: Indoors with an expert and a spotter is the safest way to practice. P.P.S.: A machinist could make a fitting for the wingtip attachment point and then you could use a block and tackle, maybe, if you had something overhead. A lot of complexity and stuff, but still nothing compared to folding the wings on my HK36TC-100! If you're on FB, I posted an unfolding video.
  12. 1 point
    Look through the picture gallery. There was an Ximango owner a while back who had trouble folding and unfolding the wings. So, he came up with a tripod/block and tackle system to help. I don't recall his name, but I do recall seeing the pictures here.
  13. 1 point
    I am 82 yrs old ,165 pounds and I can open and close the wings. I carefully turn the fuselage directly into the wind. I keep my feet directly under my hips and my back very straight while I walk the wing toward the hinge.
  14. 1 point
    Sometimes during a long climb in hot weather oil temp will creep into the 220"s, then I will level off, reduce power and let it come back down. I was wondering what relative wind the intake was seeing, so the other day temp reached 223-224, I pulled the cowl flap knob out about half an inch. Temp immediately responded, and in a minute or two went down to 213, no other changes made. Weird, looking at the angle of the door on the ground it is tilted toward closed quite a bit. Can't explain it, maybe someone else can .
  15. 1 point
    I refreshed the broken link in the control cable cleaning post. It’s quite easy to do once you have the inexpensive tool, available at motorcycle stores.
  16. 1 point
    Hello dear Phoenix owners and friends! Some of you may know me, however I would like to introduce myself - my name is Martin Stepanek (Phoenix Air Czech Republic). And I thing that all of you know our UL/LSA-Glider U-15 Phoenix :-) I am flying with the prototype (01/U15) and with electric version of PhoEnix (01/D14). I know, that producer should not praise its own product, but I still have to say that I enjoy every second when I am in the air with Phoenix. Phoenix Air never had easy life and beginning of year 2016 brought changes and news - again. Negative on this situation is, that due to many things to think about I can´t sleep so well - but positive is, that I have time to be here :-) Before I was active in Forum Homebuiltairplanes - mostly about electric e-Gliding. But yesterday I found this great place = for me is much better to stay in touch with you :-) What is my idea about this thread? 1) perfect product doesn´t exists - I will be glad to know about problems you may have with your Phoenix. 2) I would like to know your opinion about our development ideas. 3) I would like to infom you what is going here in "wild east" :-) And one more little thing.... My native langauge is Czech. Due to some years in Colombia I speak also Spanish, due to primary school I understand Russian and thanks to aviation I can speak English. But because I never studied English "professionally" I still have to learn a lot about English grammar. If I don´t know how to say/write something I simply use Google translator. So... sorry if will my answer look time to time like written by robot :-) (and I still don´t understand where to use correctly "the" or "an" etc....) Best regards! Martin
  17. 1 point
    XENOS/SONEX INC. 2006 MOTOR GLIDER. N5234 , $29,950 * ACCEPTING OFFERS * OWNERS HEALTH, , ONLY 40 hrs TTAE, 100 Hp Eng–3300 Jabiru, Sens Carbon Prop, Dynon FlightDEK-D180 EFIS/EMS, Lift Resv Ind/Stall Warn, Intercom, Comm, XPDR, Dual sticks, Contact Max Bradford; Sulphur Springs, TX; 903-243-1069
  18. 1 point
    Guten Tag Klaus, Ich heise Alan, und whonen im Seattle. Ich hab ein Phoenix U15, jetzt fur 3 Jahre. And that's enough auf Deutsch for the moment. The status of SLSA-G (Special Light Sport Airplane - Glider) is very confusing here, but this is the way it works, at least for the Phoenix, which is typical: The airplane is built to ASME standards, as are all LSA's. It's imported to the U.S. in the category of SLSA-G. It is registered here as a glider. You maintain an airplane in it's category, and you operate it as it's registered. So, registered as a glider, my Phoenix has none of the restrictions of an LSA. It can fly outside the U.S., go above 10,000 ft., exceed 120 KTAS (but! It is restricted by its operating instructions to 120 KTAS Vne, so by 'coincidence' I can not exceed the LSA Vne of 120 kts, except that it is not because it is an LSA - told you it was confusing), can fly at night, and whatever other LSA restrictions would normally apply. Canada honors what the FAA grants to an airplane, but you must still adhere to Canadian flight rules and procedures, which you are already familiar with from your past experience. If any one disagrees with any of this, please state your case. It has been a long confusing topic! I got my information from becoming a Light Sport Repairman.
  19. 1 point
    I own a Phoenix Motorglider. This is one aircraft you should definitely take a very close look at. One major feature are the removable wing tips. Pull a single pin and you can remove the 15 lb Cabon fiber tips in about 30 seconds. With the tips removed, the plane has a wingspan of 35 ft so it will fit in a standard T hangar. The major downside is that there are almost never used aircraft available. The waiting list to buy a new one is about 2 years after you send in your deposit. Another thing to watch out for is that almost every glider and Motorglider that I know of has a per seat load limit of 240 lbs, regardless of max gross weight. The only exception to this that I am aware of is the back seat of the Schweitzer 2-32, which is a non-motorized pure glider.
  20. 1 point
    When reasonable weather season is again upon us, I'd be happy to come to Klikitat and let you look at, get a ride in, a Phoenix U15 motorglider. PhoenixAir USA is the web page. Mine is in Renton at the South end of Lake Washington, and my usual hot weather flight is to take-off at about 12 -1, power over to where ever there is lift, usually I check Ellensburg prior to heading up to the Ephrata/high plateau North of Wenatchee area. Then I shut down the engine and soar until I need to land for food or a toilet or to stretch, take-off and do more soaring and then start up the engine to cross the Cascades, returning to Renton around 6. There is a lot of capability out there in various airplanes, so take your time looking. Alan Gurevich
  21. 1 point
    The Samba Motorglider from Distar Air USA has a wide cockpit and will easily hold you and and friend of equal stature as well as luggage. It is powered by a 100 hp Rotax, has a 25/1 glide ratio, and it is fully equipped at around $120k. Distarairusa.com.
  22. 1 point
    I have been asked to address in-air restarts using a windmilling prop without electrical power starting capability. Rotax says that the 912 cannot be started with a windmilling prop. I have been told that this is a liability related answer. So I will use the profound wisdom of Rotax, and also state that you can not restart the Rotax 912 by windmilling the prop. Got it? Ok good, now on to reality. I have tested windmill starting my Phoenix 4 or 5 times back in 2010 or 2011. I started it successfully each time. If the engine is warm, i.e., just shut down, then a dive of "only" 80kts was sufficient to rotate the prop fast enough to start the engine, losing about 800'. On other occasions with varying degrees (sorry) of cold engines, I have had to dive the Phoenix at over 100kts to start the engine. Do you know what a 100kt dive looks like? Well it is practically straight down, and the vertical speed is horrendous. It is easy to eat up 2000 feet of altitude during this maneuver. There is absolutely no way I would want to attempt this below 3000' instead of gliding to a suitable field or airport to make a forced landing. So when do I anticipate needing to do a windmill start? I am reluctant to use the term "never" but I cannot think of a time when I would need to do this rather than gliding to a safe landing.
  23. 1 point
    Dear Sir, I am finding a used Grob G109B. If you have some information, please let me know. best regards, Aiichiro NAKAZAWA- Japan Motor Glider Club
  24. 1 point
    I can really recommend gliding in the alps. It's beautiful and an extraordinary experience. In Switzerland I can recommend you Schänis or Samaden. Schänis is right next to the alps and a perfect enter for that. They have good instructors and a lot of gliders for renting. Even an Arcus M Samaden is located in the famous Engadin and very close to 4000m peaks like Piz Bernina and the beautiful Biancograt. Here a clip about our gliding in Samaden last year (https://youtu.be/CDeuVM3Figo?t=5m37s). It's a paradise for gliding. Maybe Samaden is a bit more expensive than Schänis. But both are great and on good days you can easily fly to each region thermally and with slope wind. In France I was only twice in St. Crépin right next to the Ecrins massif with lot of peaks about 4000 meters. I can really recommend gliding there. If you get to St. Crépin le Moulin Papillon is your stay (http://www.moulin-papillon.com/). Enjoy some special french food with good wine. Perfect after a wonderful day of gliding. They have some vintage ASK13 which are quiet fun to glide in the alps. But there are also some Pegase and a Janus for renting. They are all very supportive and your very welcome. Aspres or Puimoisson are located in the lower terrain but it's not very uncommon that all gliders startet in Aspres and Puimoissons end up in the Ecrins massiv and passing overhead St. Crépin. Check out the flights on onlinecontest.org and you will get quiet a good picture about whats possible in that region. Klaus Ohlmann flies often from Serres la batie. I've heard it's very good too. Give it a try. You wont regret this experience.
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    Many pilots have flown with the Rotax at idle for extended periods without any reported problems. Rotax wants the engine temperature to be at 190F to properly burn off water and maintain clean spark plugs and reduce lead fouling. If you run at idle for extended periods, run the engine rpm up to 3000rpm every few minutes to help keep the plugs from fouling. I prefer to shut down the engine, but I am probably more comfortable and confident with an in-air restart than others may be. I have only had one problem early on in the Lambada when I assumed the engine was cold at high altitude and used choke initially and flooded the engine. It took 800 lost feet of altitude at full throttle and no choke, to get it started. For an in-air restart, use no throttle, and no choke. If it does not fire immediately, keep cranking and slowly pull out the choke. When you hit the optimum choke for the temperature and altitude the engine will start right up. You have to pin the stick with your knees while you do this.
  27. 1 point
    For those that have researched air park living, the most common price break is the fixer for $300K and it goes up from there. In my research over the last 6 years while I was caring for my dad, I found a number of air parks that are in the price range of the average Joe. Last week I drove to 7 Bays, Washington to look at a couple of homes, and made an offer on one. The Realtor hadn't mentioned the seller took out a 2nd on the property and wanted more than market. He has a renter and has positive cash flow, so he refused my offer. In the long run this was a good thing, but that was a long drive to come up empty. 7 Bays is right on Lake Roosevelt with its 650 miles of shore line. Below are some pictures of the place I put an offer on and the area. I just got back from a even longer drive in the opposite direction to Columbus, New Mexico. For the aviation history buffs, this was the 1st Aero Squadron for the US back in 1916. Within one section of land about 3 miles north of Columbus, there are 3 air parks. Hacienda Sur Luna Air Park has a paved and lighted 4800' runway, no HOA fees, and is considered the "high end" of the 3 air parks. All lots are either 2.5 acres or 5 acres, and the last pre-owned home and hangar sold last month for $70K. There is another home and hangar listed at $138K, but with that recent $70K sell, $138K is a stretch. Here is a video of the owner of the $70K home going for a short hop. The next air park is Windsock Estates and my friend Dick lives there and put me up for the two nights I was there. His is the nicest in this air park and his hangar is 80' X 60' and on 5 acres. He would consider selling at $200K. A few pictures of Dick's home. The final air park is 1st Aero Squadron Airpark and has the "cheap seats". The last two air parks have dirt/compacted gravel 5200' runways, both in great shape and maintained for free. Also no HOA fees. Dick's first place was here and it has changed hands twice over the years. The current owner doesn't get down much any more but never placed it on the market. Dick asked if he might want to sell it without even listing it and he replied "yes". All Jim wanted was what he bought it for years ago and said $45K~$50K. I split the difference and offered $47,500, and it was accepted, so now I have a home/hangar on 2.5 acres that is rather modest but will serve me just fine. The hangar is 60' X 40' with the home in the back plus a 2nd bedroom as a add on room outside the hangar's foot print. Only 725 square feet of living space, but it is only me. I've met a number of my neighbors, what a great earthy group. Summers aren't as hot as the location would indicate because it is on the southern section of the Continental Divide so elevation is 4200'. Mexico with all the cheap dentists, pharmacies, and optometrists are 6 miles south of the air parks. My new home/hangar I guess the purpose of this long post is for the folks that would like to retire at an air park and be able to do it on the cheap. I met Mary, Steve, Ron, and Dick, the common denominator is to fly on a tight budget. Flying takes 1st seat, ego, social status and keeping up with the Jones's doesn't even get a seat, my kind of folks.
  28. 1 point
    Hi, George - I took care of mine just a few months ago. I took a Light Sport Inspection course this summer and learned about an interesting tool you can use to do this. The tool and the lubricant together cost about $10 at most reputable motorcycle shops. All you have to do is disassemble the lower cowling as you would for an oil change and apply the tool to the forward end of the cable. It took 15 minutes and now the cable is smooth as silk. http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1567231599001 ed
  29. 1 point
    This will be the first TMGA event on the East coast. Jim Lee, the Phoenix USA distributor, will be hosting this event at his home base at Melbourne International Airport (MLB) in Florida. MLB is a Class D airport with lots of advantages: plenty of area for our aircraft, nearby hotels/motels with conference facilities, restaurants, and of course, local attractions e.g. Disneyworld, the Cape Canaveral and Kennedy Space Center, and world-famous beaches for non-flying activities. Jim says that it’s highly likely that a Space Shuttle runway over-flight (200 foot above the runway), called the NASA Tour, can be arranged. The picture at the right shows Jim’s daughter Rachel setting up on base leg for the fly-by. You won’t get to do this anywhere else in the world! We’ve timed this fly-in to coincide with the Sun ‘N Fun International Fly-In and Expo for those who want to experience the #2 air event in the USA. The Expo is about 2 hours from Melbourne, or perhaps a short hop to a near-by airfield and then a car shuttle to the event. The East coast event is only four months away, and we’ll be posting information in the Event section of the Website shortly…so start thinking about coming NOW! If you are one of our non-USA members, think about a flying/family vacation in a world-famous part of the USA. We would love to have you!
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    Hello Martin! Welcome! I would love to have 17m extensions, and 90kts Vne is fine in that case. Bent or straight is okay. I'm sure you will maintain the good looks. My ship 15/23 is doing fine. A wonderful ship. I agree that we need many more in the USA. There seems to be a great demand.
  32. 1 point
    A pilot friend turned me on to this website. I am embedding a viewer to give you an idea but you should check them out at link.
  33. 1 point
    Hi, George - This might be helpful. I had similar concerns a while back. http://www.motorgliders.org/forums/topic/459-lithium-grease-university/ ed
  34. 1 point
    Thank you Ed, I have the same feeling - to improve L/D even if some speed limitation will be necessary. They are two areas on the Phoenix we are actually looking to. Already mentionned idea of longer wing extensions and some design modification on engine cowling :-) My friend - Mr. Potmesil from HPH (http://www.hph.cz/index.php?lang=en) offered me help in case we will need CNC to make prototype moulds - that could really help. Best regards! Martin .
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    5 Tips for Storing Your Plane for the Winter Reprinted from an AOPA Advertisement for AOPA Member Insurance Winter is in full swing, but there’s still time to prepare your aircraft for winter storage to ensure that it’s ready to go when spring flying season starts. Your best guidance comes from your A&P, but here are some tasks to consider with the goal of keeping corrosion and other damage to a minimum. Change the oil. It may seem counter-intuitive to change the oil now rather than starting with new oil come spring, but remember that the oil in your engine is old and contains dirt and contaminants that can cause rust and corrosion. Not only should you change the oil, but you should replace it with a preservative oil mixture. Then take a quick flight with your new oil to make sure the oil is distributed throughout your engine. Prepare your sparkplugs. Remove the sparkplugs and spray the holes with a preservative oil mixture. Then replace the original sparkplugs and they’ll be set for winter. Another item to consider is the airplane battery. It probably won’t hold the charge, at least enough of a charge, to start in the spring after sitting for a few months. Bringing the battery home and storing it out of a super-cold location is good. Or a trickle charger can be used every few weeks while it’s in the airplane to maintain the charge and enhance battery life. Guard against critters. Mice and other animals will seek refuge from the cold both in your hangar and in your airplane. Of course, no food of any kind that could provide enticement for pests should be left in your hangar or in your airplane. Plug all the holes. Use pitot tube covers and static vent covers, which will keep insects and dirt out that could later form a blockage. Plugging all holes will also prevent moisture that could get into your engine and cause corrosion. Cover what you can. Your airplane’s windows, canopy, prop blades, and tail should be covered. That will reduce damage to those surfaces, and also help reduce damage to the panel and upholstery caused by exposure to the sun and moisture from rain, ice, and snow. Keep the fuel tanks full. Storing your airplane with full fuel tanks reduces the moisture that can condense in a partially full tank. If your airplane has a flexible, rubber fuel bladder, a full tank will also minimize cracking. And don’t worry about the age of fuel. Most avgas is good up to a year. These five items are what you should do. But what shouldn’t you do during the winter storage period? Here’s one thing: Don’t “ground run” your airplane. It is tempting to visit your airplane every few weeks and start it up, thinking this is good for your airplane, but this is a bad idea. Ground running your airplane is not a substitute for an actual flight, where the engine heats to a uniform appropriate temperature. In fact, the uneven heating as a result of ground running is worse for your airplane than doing nothing at all. Leave it alone. Preparing your aircraft for its winter hibernation takes time and effort that will pay off when that first perfect spring flying day comes around again. Consult your pilot’s operating handbook, maintenance manuals, and your A&P for the best winter storage solutions for your particular make and model.
  37. 1 point
    I don't know if any of you have been having this issue, but I finally solved a problem that has been vexing me for over a year. I found that the smoothness with which I can install and disassemble the wingtips varies tremendously. This was really frustrating. Some days the wingtips were easy to assemble, other times it was remarkably difficult to get them seated properly or removed at the end of the flight. At first I thought it was a temperature related issue, but having explored various approaches over the past year I think I now understand the problem. The mistake I was making at first was not using the lithium grease frequently enough, followed by a period where I was using too much, too often, and it was only after I actually understood the component elements of lithium grease that I figured out what was wrong. Lithium grease is actually a soap. Unlike hand soap, where sodium or potassium is combined with fatty acids, lithium is used since it is less likely to corrode the metal. This soap is then blended with some form of oil. The reason this is important to know is that after disassembly the exposed parts are subject to drying as the oil evaporates, leaving a soap scum on the metal fittings. If you have ever cleaned the shower or tub you know how difficult soap scum can be to remove. This residual deposit is very difficult to see and so the attachment fittings look just a bit dull, as if they just need more lithium grease, when in fact there is an accumulating, uneven layer of dried soap gradually decreasing the clearance between the pin and the bushing. You can actually use your fingernail to scratch the residue and see what I mean. Once the soap has dried additional lubricant does not make the deposit soluble, and only a gentle polishing will take it off. What finally worked for me was to get some scotch bright pads and cut them into half-inch wide strips. These strips can be used to buff the pins and can be inserted into the bushings and rotated. This should be done with some fresh lithium grease so that you can use the oil as a lubricant. It's pretty effective in removing the soap scum, and now the addition of a small amount of lithium grease prior to assembly seems to restore the ease with which the components come together and disassemble. Also note that this scum can fill the corner where the pin body meets the wing rib and can round out this right angle preventing the seating of the pin against the bushing. You’ll know this is a problem if the spar pin seems tight and resistant. Another thing I’ve noticed is that in cleaning the bushings one often gets a green copper oxide residue on the rag, suggesting some oxidation. Although applying fresh lithium grease after flight might inhibit this, the problem is that it will just dry out. Next week I’m going to try some half inch rubber stoppers to plug the bushings and some drilled out larger stoppers to cover the pins to decrease the area subject to evaporation.
  38. 1 point
    When I took my Phoenix flight training from Jim Lee, the Phoenix dealer, I had a hard getting the landings consistent. My flying was fine, except for the last 10 seconds of the landing, which is the, um, critical part. Many landings later, from good to bad, I finally realized my thousands of hours in single seat sailplanes were not good preparation for a side-by-side touring motorglider: the sight picture - what you see out the front of the canopy - is so different, I wasn't adapting to it. In sailplanes, you look straight out over the center of the nose, and it's easy to see the glider's alignment with the runway; in the Phoenix, like most touring motorgliders, you have to look to the left of center to see where the glider is going. The first thing I tried was putting a 1" square of white on the canopy frame, right where I had to look to know what the glider was pointed at. Take a look at the attached image: the upper square tape (about 11 o'clock on the canopy frame) is the "look here to see where the glider is pointed" tape. That made a big difference - now I could at least keep the glider aimed down the runway! I still had plenty trouble holding the glider just off the ground during last 10 seconds of the landing, often landing with a bad bounce. Eventually, I realized the nose sits so much higher than the noses in the sailplanes I had flown for over 30 years, I was unconsciously not raising the nose high enough to obtain the 3-point attitude needed for a good landing. The cure was simple: I put a 2" horizontal piece of white tape on the canopy frame, right on the horizon when the glider is sitting on the ground. The attached image shows this: the 2" horizontal tape (about 9 o'clock on the canopy frame) is the "put the horizon here to have a 3-point touchdown attitude" tape. That attitude reference, just 2" of tape, made a dramatic difference in my landings: I immediately began to make good, consistent 3-point landings with confidence, and because I know exactly the attitude of the glider, I can just keep easing the stick back until the tape is even with the horizon, and it settles down so nicely. The attached PDF shows another view of the "sight tapes" and a bit more explanation. Phoenix sight lines.pdf
  39. 1 point

    From the album: Sinus Videos

    Just over 200km flight before bringing the engine on again... Video Link:
  40. 1 point
    No, just call Lockwood Aviation in Florida. 863-655-5100. Tell them what you have and they'll send you what you need. Basically, it's a short, molded hose and a meter or so of metric sized radiator hose that you'll cut into the pieces you need to replace your old hoses. It ain't cheap, but it's very good quality stuff and Rotax approved. One other thing I thought of regarding the hose clamps is Rotax recommends using "spring clamps" or "Corbin style" clamps as opposed to worm drive hose clamps on the radiator hoses. Here's what they look like: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Tools-Garage-and-Equipment/Hose-Clamp-Universal-Type/_/N-25vt?filterByKeyWord=Spring+hose+clamps&fromString=search The reason is because the aluminum fittings that the hoses plug onto expand and contract as the engine heats up and cools down. The worm drive style clamps don't allow for this expansion and end up crushing the hose, which will eventually leak. The spring clamps allow the aluminum fittings to expand and contract while keeping even pressure on the hose throughout the range. There's a tool to use on this style clamp. You can get one at any major auto parts store for around $30. The easy to reach clamps you can probably get with needle nose pliers or a small pair of Channel Locks, but to get at some of the clamps you'll almost have to have one of these tools. Here's what the tool looks like: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-Hose-clamp-pliers/_/N-26on?itemIdentifier=607069_0_0_
  41. 1 point
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  43. 1 point

    From the album: Roytol

    The new oil cooler was mounted on two aluminium angles on each side of the sump. Only existing holes or threaded holes wwwere used. I had to cut off a small alloy lug that stuck out from the bottom of the sump. It was not used for anything.The oil cooler was mounted with sheet silicone between the cooler and the mount to allow for expansion, etc.
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