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  1. I just completed the ferry flight of my SF28A motorglider to its new owner, from Oregon to Georgia. It took more than a week, but it was fun. I have posted the trip report with pictures on my web site www.caro-engineering.com under "News". [Editor's Note: Report is also attached here for easy reference, but everyone should check-out Sonja's website when they get a chance. For those that haven't been following she has designed and built her own motorglider the Caro 1 MG and she is posting flight test results.] Sonja's 2016 Trek OR to GA.pdf
    3 points
  2. The elusive G109A maintenance manual was found (special thanks to Gerald Suhrcke in Bayer who had a copy). It is attached here (German only but we are just glad to find it) along with the G109B maintenance manual in English just in case anyone does not have it as well (plus other related docs are in the link below). Thanks Gerald!! https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1sPaPYyR_YJ-EAo3iTY8-Tcr5vz0J9Bux?usp=sharing Grob-G109A-Maintenance-manual-Rev7.pdf Grob-G109B-Maintenance-manual.pdf
    2 points
  3. Thanks for the suggestion. I figured it out and successfully repaired it. The trick is to use a 6mm ball hex socket, a universal, and several extensions to reach thru the inspection opening then the second set of hands undoes the nut which is tucked in the welded box at the bottom. I found the internals so packed with grit that the cam could not push the spring off the stop since it was packed behind the space the spring should move into. The bearing surfaces were pretty well chewed up, A good cleaning and lubrication solved it. Bob
    2 points
  4. Great article! I actually own this very aircraft N300BG and just completed a cross country trip from Pennsylvania to Oklahoma last week. It flew well and particularly enjoyed cruising at 2200 rpm (cruise pitch setting). The trip took around 13 flight hours and I made several stops along the way. The Grob can outlast me anytime when it comes to endurance! Thanks for posting the article.
    2 points
  5. Yes, there is hope for us wimps. I am 5'7", 230 lbs. and 73 years old and yes I have problems opening and closing the wings so I built a simple lever system and it is very doable now. It consists of a 10' carbon tube (what I had from an old delta hang glider) two wing shaped plywood pieces, a couple ratchet straps and two 25 lb. bar bell weights. The system reduces the lift weight from 30 lbs at the wing tip to about half that. My concern was what if it should slip while in the vertical position? I glued a rubberized material to the surface next to the wing for protection of the wing but when the ratchet straps are tightened nothing moves. The second issue was how far out could I go and not hit the ground when in the vertical position? Further than I thought but a quick measurement on the first lift answered the question and I have sense put stops on the tube so when I mount it no further measurement are required. Steve R.
    2 points
  6. I've done quite a bit of XC in my Ximango (been to the west coast from Tennessee twice, plus other excursions to Florida, NC, SC, OH, and VA). I figure on 4.5 gph. That gives a little fudge factor, but I'm running a little harder at around 5200 rpm in cruise. I see 115 kt pretty regularly up to about 8000'. Above 8000' it definitely slows down. My Ximango is a little different than the others, though. Mine has positive seals on the rudder and elevator, as well as Mylar on the hinge lines, fairings over the wing fold latches, profiled spoiler caps, fitted and sealed gear doors, contoured composite inspection covers replacing the factory flat aluminum plates, and low profile inspection doors on the sump drains. I also tape up the wing fairings. It's noticeably cleaner and quieter than other Ximangos I've flown. I've played a bit with prop pitch, too. There is a sweet spot.
    1 point
  7. Much like you shouldn't go immediately to take off power with a cold engine, you don't want to abruptly shut down a hot engine. Throttle back and let it cool down at idle for 5 minutes. I even do this with the Rotax 912s in my Ximango. New heads are expensive. Flying around with the engine at idle for 5 minutes is not. When you shut down a hot engine at altitude you're blowing cold air on hot cast metal. This is begging for uneven cooling which will eventually lead to cracks, usually in the front cylinder heads because that is where the coolest of the cooling air goes first. So, go to idle for a few minutes, let the engine cool down slowly through airflow and oil temp, then shut down. I let my oil temp drop to 160F before I shut down my Rotax. If you don't have wet heads you might want to let it cool down a bit farther. As my granny used to say "Better to hold the phone than have a kidney stone".........
    1 point
  8. An older gel coat finish (S/N before 121 or so) would definitely be heavier, but not 50 lbs heavier. However, little things do add up rapidly. As an old EAA councilor once told me "Son, take care of the ounces and the pounds will take care of themselves". What you probably should do is weigh the airplane and verify the numbers. It's a very simple procedure. Look for it in the manual. That much of a discrepancy would concern me. WRT the designation for a "motorglider", the FAA refers to them as "Powered Gliders" in an Advisory Circular entitled “Powered Glider,” (AC) 21.17-2a. This AC states three requirements to be certificated as a “Powered Glider” under FAA regulations: First, it may be either Single or two place (no two place back seats). Second, the maximum gross weight is limited to 850kg (1874 lbs), and third, the wing loading (weight/span) loading must be no more than .62 lbs/sqft. In addition to AC 21.17-2a, FAR 91.205 lists the requirements for engine monitoring. The requirements laid out in AC 21.17 were adopted by the FAA in 1984, nine years before the EU was even formed. These requirements come directly from the FAA, not the EU. FWIW, many authorizing agencies around the world reciprocate with the FAA regs. In the case of Brazil, ANAC, the Brazilian FAA, adopted our FAR's verbatim with little deviation, with one of those deviations being the gross operating weight of the Ximango (depending on how it is registered). The 2500 lb weight limit comes directly from Claudio Vianna, the owner and Chief Engineer of Aeromot, as well as several of his junior Engineers and the factory test pilot. You will find this designation on the various Type Certificates. The Ximango has been used for a variety of missions, not just as a motorglider. These include coastal patrols, wildlife patrols, police surveillance, primary trainers for the USAFA, and for oil/gas/mineral exploration. The Ximango platform (fuselage and inboard wing sections) were used in the Guri (AMT-600), a primary aerobatic trainer used by the Brazilian Air Force, 28 of which were manufactured. Equipped with an IO-360 and constant speed prop, the Guri is a 180 knot aerobatic airplane. The Guri was also manufactured with an 0-200, fixed pitch prop and fixed gear for a domestic basic trainer. I saw seven of these when I visited Brazil and the Aeromot factory in 2010. Here's a photo of the civilian version of the Guri:
    1 point
  9. Everybody! Thank you with your replies. Here is a summary: Very small group and not an email list. Personally, I think touring motogliders are the way to go for the future of flying as they have the best economy, good over land speeds, and easy to fly compared to Cessna. Now we just need to have affordable motorgliders.
    1 point
  10. Grob has released the drawings to change from a Grob 2500 to a Rotax 912. It is in a service bulletin under the "General" portion of downloads. According to the same service bulletin, the Grob 2500 is now 'obsolete'. Southern Sailplanes recovered from 2500s as part of "Project Able" but now shows all of them as sold out.
    1 point
  11. Hi all I would like to get your help. Currently I got Grob G109B in France and thinking to bring it to Japan. but Grob website does not helped anything. so I would consider to carry with your help. I really appreciate if you help and tell me how you tied up when you carry by car or container, or tell me the g109 strong point for tie up. Thanks! Shu
    1 point
  12. I simplified the website and was able to get the updates done. See the post in the Hangar Flying forum for more details.
    1 point
  13. My trip was around 1100 miles as a made a few detours to stay away from busy airspace. Fuel consumption was 22 mpg and most of the trip was with light headwinds. I flew at 4500 feet about 11 hours or so and 2 hours at 6500 feet. Airspeed was around 90 mph most of the time. The one thing that surprised me was that the Grob could fly a lot longer than I could….my longest leg was 4 hours and there was still plenty of fuel for a few more hours. As for how long in days….I got a late start the first day (3pm) and only flew 2.5 hours. The next day I noticed a front blocking my way so I opted to enjoy a day off to let it pass. I then flew two more days before arriving in Tulsa around 5pm. I could have made better time and save a day by leaving super early each day but I was in no hurry. It was an epic trip and the longest I have ever undertaken in any single engine aircraft. The Grob is a good cross country flyer!
    1 point
  14. Steve, 1) The stock wheel is a bear to work with. In my experience, the key is to first support the wheel via a dummy axle post (secured rigidly in a workshop vise) and work one tire bead onto the wheel; then work the tube into the tire, then mechanically clamp (i.e. squeeze without pinching the tube) one sector of the tire together so that both tire beads can be worked together down into the "valley" at the mid-plane of the wheel, and then work the remainder of the second bead onto the tire. Talcum powder does help. Liquid soap can also be used, but expect a mess. It's hard enough to do in the workshop and quite impractical if you're stranded somewhere. 2) As HiFlite has pointed out, the Tost Moritz II is well worth using. This is a two-piece split wheel that allows easy tire/tube replacement. A spare tire and tube, plus a few basic hand tools, are all that are needed in the aircraft to avoid being stranded. I can confirm HiFlite's information that there is a small difference in the hub width (and thus bearing spacing) of the two wheel types, which necessitates some adjustments to the spacers. Specifically, the Tost wheel is slightly wider than the stock wheel and so, if the stock shoulder spacers are placed into the Tost bearings, the overall spacer-to-spacer distance ends up slightly larger than the gap between the fork legs and it won't fit. There are a couple of ways to deal with this: (a) Place the stock spacers in a lathe and turn off a millimeter or so (sometimes a fraction of a millimeter or so) from the inside shoulder of each spacer. To figure out how much material to remove, place the stock shoulder spacers into the Tost wheel, measure outside-to-outside across the spacers, and compare with a measurement taken inside-to-inside between the fork legs. Take the difference between the two measurements and use half the value for the amount of material to remove from under each shoulder. One consideration (issue) with this method is that the hollow spacer tube (between bearings) of the Tost wheel has a 12mm bore, whereas the hollow spacer tube between the bearings in the stock wheel has a 6mm bore (in order to fit the 6mm axle bolt). Re-using the stock spacer tube (compression tube), by transferring it over to the Tost wheel, won't work because it'll be too short and using the included Tost spacer tube is questionable because there won't be anything to hold it concentric with the 6mm axle (i.e. not a good idea to allow the Tost hollow spacer tube to orbit the axle). A new spacer tube (with length equal to the Tost spacer tube and bore matching the stock tube) can be turned on the lathe. Alternately, a sleeve (with 6mm ID and 12mm OD) could be inserted into the Tost spacer tube. (b) Another option is to order a pair of FTCLA flanged collars from Misumi. This is a "configurable" part and dimensions can be specified as needed to fit the requirements. For example, a configured part number might be FTCLA-V6-D12-H15.5-T13-L30. https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110300235050/ . The V6 corresponds to the axle bolt hole size, the D12 corresponds to the bearing ID, the H15.5 is the shoulder OD, the T13 is the shoulder length (this is the value that needs to be determined according to the fork spacing), and the L30 is the overall length. The length of the shank that goes though the bearing and into the hollow compression tube between bearings is thus 30mm - 13mm = 17mm. Note that the L30 can be any reasonable number, just not too long otherwise the shanks of the two opposing spacers will meet at the middle of the wheel assembly. The main benefit of having the shank length greater than the bearing width (8mm) is that the extended shank will extend past the bearing and hold the 12mm ID Tost spacer tube concentric with the 6mm axle (avoiding the issue noted in the previous paragraph). The shank length can be made any length up to a value that is shy of the two shoulder spacers meeting in the middle of the wheel assembly. Since the shoulder length (T13 in the example) can only be specified in 1mm increments, generally round the required dimension down to the nearest millimeter (or if the required value is really close to the next larger increment, round up and a tiny amount of flex in the fork legs will accommodate it). It is also possible to specify one part with a shoulder length one millimeter more than the other (for example, order one with T13 and the other with T14). Note: the stock spacers are not necessarily identical either. For any fine-tuning of the shoulder-to-shoulder distance, some 0.2mm, 0.3mm, or 0.5mm thick stainless steel ring shims from Misumi can also be considered. For example, PACK10-CIMRS12-16-0.2, PACK10-CIMRS12-16-0.3, or PACK10-CIMRS12-16-0.5. https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302677870/ . Cheers, Leo Tost Moritz II wheel with shoulder spacers. Side-by-side of Tost two-piece wheel with stock single-piece wheel. Close up of slightly shorter shoulder spacer (placed inverted) next to the installed stock spacer.
    1 point
  15. On my Ximango (#135) the top of the panel is a piece of molded plastic. Remove the hex head screws on either side and it lifts off straight up. Very easy, takes less than a minute.
    1 point
  16. I've never had a gasket look that bad on any car or aircraft I've owned! I suggest you order a new cap (0.9 Bar) from California Power Systems or Lockwood: if the gaskets gone bad, maybe other things aren't quite right. At $80 it's horribly expensive, but maybe there is a good reason for that. Also, it may not be possible to put in a new gasket without major effort.
    1 point
  17. Hi I'm new to the TMGA so perhaps I'm not posting this in the correct category but here it goes... I started making a list of every active TMG we have flying in Sweden. Found the TMGA while doing so. Feel free to check out the website, but it's not translated to english yet. You can find my website with the list here: https://www.tmgsverige.se/ Hopefully I can help if anyone plans to visit Sweden and wants to fly a local Touring Motor Glider.
    1 point
  18. From the album: Ted's Stuff

    © tedgrussing photography © 2020

    1 point
  19. Search Elfin 20.ex for the latest (soon to be flying) hybrid electric touring motor glider from Germany. 50:1 side-by-side Electric self-launch with hybrid option for long range touring.
    1 point
  20. Look through the picture gallery. There was an Ximango owner a while back who had trouble folding and unfolding the wings. So, he came up with a tripod/block and tackle system to help. I don't recall his name, but I do recall seeing the pictures here.
    1 point
  21. I am 82 yrs old ,165 pounds and I can open and close the wings. I carefully turn the fuselage directly into the wind. I keep my feet directly under my hips and my back very straight while I walk the wing toward the hinge.
    1 point
  22. Slick Champion customer service: "I have an M2266 approved for the Grob with a VW engine and 4300 series mag. I checked and the firing order is the same as your’s 1324. My lengths are 1-29”; 3-29”, 2-24” and 4-24”; this is the measurement between the outside of the mag cap to the center of the swedged ferrule where the plug nut seats. If this works for you in lengths it will work fine!" So you can use G109A harness to G109B.
    1 point
  23. Sometimes during a long climb in hot weather oil temp will creep into the 220"s, then I will level off, reduce power and let it come back down. I was wondering what relative wind the intake was seeing, so the other day temp reached 223-224, I pulled the cowl flap knob out about half an inch. Temp immediately responded, and in a minute or two went down to 213, no other changes made. Weird, looking at the angle of the door on the ground it is tilted toward closed quite a bit. Can't explain it, maybe someone else can .
    1 point
  24. Hello dear Phoenix owners and friends! Some of you may know me, however I would like to introduce myself - my name is Martin Stepanek (Phoenix Air Czech Republic). And I thing that all of you know our UL/LSA-Glider U-15 Phoenix :-) I am flying with the prototype (01/U15) and with electric version of PhoEnix (01/D14). I know, that producer should not praise its own product, but I still have to say that I enjoy every second when I am in the air with Phoenix. Phoenix Air never had easy life and beginning of year 2016 brought changes and news - again. Negative on this situation is, that due to many things to think about I can´t sleep so well - but positive is, that I have time to be here :-) Before I was active in Forum Homebuiltairplanes - mostly about electric e-Gliding. But yesterday I found this great place = for me is much better to stay in touch with you :-) What is my idea about this thread? 1) perfect product doesn´t exists - I will be glad to know about problems you may have with your Phoenix. 2) I would like to know your opinion about our development ideas. 3) I would like to infom you what is going here in "wild east" :-) And one more little thing.... My native langauge is Czech. Due to some years in Colombia I speak also Spanish, due to primary school I understand Russian and thanks to aviation I can speak English. But because I never studied English "professionally" I still have to learn a lot about English grammar. If I don´t know how to say/write something I simply use Google translator. So... sorry if will my answer look time to time like written by robot :-) (and I still don´t understand where to use correctly "the" or "an" etc....) Best regards! Martin
    1 point
  25. Subject: Welcome to the Taifun 17E Motorglider group From: "finbarsheehy" <finbarsheehy@ Date: 9/14/06 8:10 PM To: Taifun17E@yahoogroups.com This purpose of this group is to facilitate discussion about the Taifun. Please post a message with your interests if you read this message.
    1 point
  26. Abstract: I am considering purchase of a Grob 109B that does not have the appliance to fold the wings with one person! I have contacted Grob and with the Euro at its present and increasing value find it quite costly to purchase from them! I would like the specifications, drawings and photos of the aforemention rigging tool so that I might replecate it. Any help would be more than appreciated. Subject: rigging/derig tool for 109B grob From: "p.cullman" <antiqair@LfW8lcx3rZ_6_Hm1t5tgCIEqes1XjsLFh2ul2pkVpscIn03F5wDdOyLw6Of9GEJpnGYDhBFGRg.yahoo.invalid> Date: 3/17/08 8:32 AM To: G109_Pilots@yahoogroups.com I am considering purchase of a Grob 109B that does not have the appliance to fold the wings with one person! I have contacted Grob and with the Euro at its present and increasing value find it quite costly to purchase from them! I would like the specifications, drawings and photos of the aforemention rigging tool so that I might replecate it. Any help would be more than appreciated. Paul Cullman Subject: Re: rigging/derig tool for 109B grob From: "prg55100" <pierrot.greff@uqPcJOcwayM1LSJRQZcLcCFX0qzku_ijl1-k9Ofd1wJZeXLGGHk78g0rwGuSV2mDpz2eAqF8ZXko8LNN3k8QnQ.yahoo.invalid> Date: 4/4/08 2:21 PM To: G109_Pilots@yahoogroups.com Paul, These one man rigs are worth money. I use them at each flight. I have no specs or drawings but can send you some pictures if you send me your Email. Regards Pierrot Subject: Re: [G109_Pilots] Re: rigging/derig tool for 109B grob From: Date: 4/4/08 5:15 PM To: <G109_Pilots@yahoogroups.com> I plan on folding each time also! any help in my manufacturing the rig I would be eternally grateful. Paul Culman / antiqair. Subject: Re: [G109_Pilots] Re: rigging/derig tool for 109B grob From: lyonbyte@5KhwPChWZ54Mm6DoffRr96ZuYUjn5KcDcqmp-aTerhgsakD0Aqn_Ko8oHlIqrUa1KVYoCOdCiSI.yahoo.invalid Date: 4/6/08 12:28 PM To: G109_Pilots@yahoogroups.com I have a 109b in Hawaii, I would love to see the pics if the rigger if you don't mind. I may be losing my hanger soon. Thanks BILL LYON TerraPAC Imagery AERIAL PHOTOGRAPHY 59-510 Makana Road Haleiwa, Hawaii 96712 808-225-6355 Subject: Re: [G109_Pilots] Re: rigging/derig tool for 109B grob From: pierrot Greff Date: 4/7/08 1:06 PM To: G109_Pilots@yahoogroups.com Hi Paul, Herewith my address Looking foreward some of your pictures. May I put some online on my site at: http://mp.motoplaneur.free.fr/ Thanks alot and fly safely Pierrot Subject: Re: [G109_Pilots] Re: rigging/derig tool for 109B grob From: "Richard Depinay" <jeplane@nnbloh8HZcpgnk3QDYMek6mqigjtlYw6aYeJedNfq6CNgOR7Jdekl1X5pNca1-LCGQ-mMI2fMoTe.yahoo.invalid> Date: 4/8/08 2:16 PM To: G109_Pilots@yahoogroups.com You are bringing a lot of memories Pierrot! I have 300 hrs in the Dimona AK posted on your site, back in 1984, when it was brand new, and still with a F-W... immatriculation. (aero-club de St-Quentin dans l'Aisne) Since then I have immigrated to the US. Richard Phoenix, AZ Subject: rigging/derig tool for 109B grob From: "Paul Cullman" <antiqair@QXSReJ5eNQRianUj1VfLSPVIrkQ_9CcEr44miU2AIx-xFApI3GYPoEESsfKJ5J6B8RFLVeh1DVchCA.yahoo.invalid> Date: 5/17/08 8:34 PM To: G109_Pilots@yahoogroups.com Well many thanks to member Pierrot I was able to have the single person rigging tool replicated and I find that yes I can rig and derig my 109B by myself and move it in and out of the hanger. I do have a motorized tug that was used on a Mooney that I plan to adapt so the movement will be some what easier. My neighbor who is in the business of steel fabrication was able to duplicate, from photos the rather intricate device. Many thanks to our member in France for his great help. I am presently operating of a two thousand foot grass strip that is one way. The Grob loves the grass as long as it is mowed.
    1 point
  27. Guten Tag Klaus, Ich heise Alan, und whonen im Seattle. Ich hab ein Phoenix U15, jetzt fur 3 Jahre. And that's enough auf Deutsch for the moment. The status of SLSA-G (Special Light Sport Airplane - Glider) is very confusing here, but this is the way it works, at least for the Phoenix, which is typical: The airplane is built to ASME standards, as are all LSA's. It's imported to the U.S. in the category of SLSA-G. It is registered here as a glider. You maintain an airplane in it's category, and you operate it as it's registered. So, registered as a glider, my Phoenix has none of the restrictions of an LSA. It can fly outside the U.S., go above 10,000 ft., exceed 120 KTAS (but! It is restricted by its operating instructions to 120 KTAS Vne, so by 'coincidence' I can not exceed the LSA Vne of 120 kts, except that it is not because it is an LSA - told you it was confusing), can fly at night, and whatever other LSA restrictions would normally apply. Canada honors what the FAA grants to an airplane, but you must still adhere to Canadian flight rules and procedures, which you are already familiar with from your past experience. If any one disagrees with any of this, please state your case. It has been a long confusing topic! I got my information from becoming a Light Sport Repairman.
    1 point
  28. In reference to taking off with full spoilers until up to speed, I feel = that may be asking for trouble but as I say, whatever works. One reason = for my concern is that we lost a Ximango a few years ago ==================================================== Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 22:07:25 -0600 Reply-To: "jim.durango" <jim.durango@starband.net> Sender: Ximango Owners Group <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM> From: "jim.durango" <jim.durango@STARBAND.NET> Subject: Cross wind discussion MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi All, Very interesting reading the variety of ways to take-off in the same = bird! Whatever works best for each owner is fine as long as it is safe. For my two cents worth - don't seem to have any problem up to 15 kts = direct steady left crosswind or 18 kts right crosswind. Thus as = previously noted - if it is a direct (or close to it) crosswind, I would = choose to take off with the wind coming from the right. In gusty = conditions, lower your take off crosswind limit accordingly. I guess I = have over 2,000 hours of Ximango time now but that doesn't mean I know = that I am doing things the best way. Heinz should tell us what he = thinks. Personally, I love to have the tail up as soon as it will fly so start = with the stick neutral until about 32 kts where forward stick brings the = tail up and lift off at about 45. On landing, I also like to save wear = on the poor little tailwheel so unless it is over a 15 kt crosswind (in = which case three point and immediately use full spoilers). I prefer to = only let the tailwheel down when almost full forward stick will no = longer hold it up. In reference to taking off with full spoilers until up to speed, I feel = that may be asking for trouble but as I say, whatever works. One reason = for my concern is that we lost a Ximango a few years ago (passengers ok) = when we suspect the spoilers were not closed for takeoff after they were = used during taxi. The bird barely made it off the ground and ended up = crashing off the end of the runway once out of ground effect. It = appeared the engine was putting out full power. That was at near sea = level conditions. Soon after that I ran some tests for my own education = and found that at our 9,000 ft density altitude at the time you could = not get to take off speed on a grass strip and could barely make it to = minimum flying speed on a paved runway. At about lift off speed that = old drag really builds up quickly. Thus, please be very careful if you = use the spoilers on take-off. Confession about crosswinds: Coming back from OSH last fall with the = bird we had on display, I refueled in Kansas. There was a direct 25 kt = crosswind to the single runway. Anyone with an IQ over 60 would have = left it for the night and gotten a motel or landed at a different = airport with a runway running east-west. I didn't. Took off with the = wind from the right, left the tail down longer, used full left rudder, = tapped the left brake but still put a little scrape on the wingtip = banking to stay out of the ditch. Please don't do such foolish things = as I barely made it off and spent the rest of the trip reminding myself = how stupid that decision was. A friend of mine, Larry Bartlett, produced a video that might help new = tailwheel pilots. "Taming The Taildragger" on VHS Phone 970-731-9552. = Larry has been flying tailwheel aircraft since 1945, has a ATP, CFI and = is a FAA Safety Counselor. He currently flys a Cessna 195 N195LB but = has extensive experience in lots of different designs. As a side note, = "Meet the Ximango" and "From Brazil to Durango" are now available on DVD = as well as VHS. Same price, one for $25 or both for $40. =20 Have fun out there! Jim McCann
    1 point
  29. I own a Phoenix Motorglider. This is one aircraft you should definitely take a very close look at. One major feature are the removable wing tips. Pull a single pin and you can remove the 15 lb Cabon fiber tips in about 30 seconds. With the tips removed, the plane has a wingspan of 35 ft so it will fit in a standard T hangar. The major downside is that there are almost never used aircraft available. The waiting list to buy a new one is about 2 years after you send in your deposit. Another thing to watch out for is that almost every glider and Motorglider that I know of has a per seat load limit of 240 lbs, regardless of max gross weight. The only exception to this that I am aware of is the back seat of the Schweitzer 2-32, which is a non-motorized pure glider.
    1 point
  30. I have been asked to address in-air restarts using a windmilling prop without electrical power starting capability. Rotax says that the 912 cannot be started with a windmilling prop. I have been told that this is a liability related answer. So I will use the profound wisdom of Rotax, and also state that you can not restart the Rotax 912 by windmilling the prop. Got it? Ok good, now on to reality. I have tested windmill starting my Phoenix 4 or 5 times back in 2010 or 2011. I started it successfully each time. If the engine is warm, i.e., just shut down, then a dive of "only" 80kts was sufficient to rotate the prop fast enough to start the engine, losing about 800'. On other occasions with varying degrees (sorry) of cold engines, I have had to dive the Phoenix at over 100kts to start the engine. Do you know what a 100kt dive looks like? Well it is practically straight down, and the vertical speed is horrendous. It is easy to eat up 2000 feet of altitude during this maneuver. There is absolutely no way I would want to attempt this below 3000' instead of gliding to a suitable field or airport to make a forced landing. So when do I anticipate needing to do a windmill start? I am reluctant to use the term "never" but I cannot think of a time when I would need to do this rather than gliding to a safe landing.
    1 point
  31. I can really recommend gliding in the alps. It's beautiful and an extraordinary experience. In Switzerland I can recommend you Schänis or Samaden. Schänis is right next to the alps and a perfect enter for that. They have good instructors and a lot of gliders for renting. Even an Arcus M Samaden is located in the famous Engadin and very close to 4000m peaks like Piz Bernina and the beautiful Biancograt. Here a clip about our gliding in Samaden last year (https://youtu.be/CDeuVM3Figo?t=5m37s). It's a paradise for gliding. Maybe Samaden is a bit more expensive than Schänis. But both are great and on good days you can easily fly to each region thermally and with slope wind. In France I was only twice in St. Crépin right next to the Ecrins massif with lot of peaks about 4000 meters. I can really recommend gliding there. If you get to St. Crépin le Moulin Papillon is your stay (http://www.moulin-papillon.com/). Enjoy some special french food with good wine. Perfect after a wonderful day of gliding. They have some vintage ASK13 which are quiet fun to glide in the alps. But there are also some Pegase and a Janus for renting. They are all very supportive and your very welcome. Aspres or Puimoisson are located in the lower terrain but it's not very uncommon that all gliders startet in Aspres and Puimoissons end up in the Ecrins massiv and passing overhead St. Crépin. Check out the flights on onlinecontest.org and you will get quiet a good picture about whats possible in that region. Klaus Ohlmann flies often from Serres la batie. I've heard it's very good too. Give it a try. You wont regret this experience.
    1 point
  32. There is not much chance of shortening the build process doing it the way I did it. The only way to get there quicker would be with production tooling, assembling the parts from a kit. I am a creative person and like to build things, so it was overall enjoyable, but often very hard and difficult.
    1 point
  33. For those that have researched air park living, the most common price break is the fixer for $300K and it goes up from there. In my research over the last 6 years while I was caring for my dad, I found a number of air parks that are in the price range of the average Joe. Last week I drove to 7 Bays, Washington to look at a couple of homes, and made an offer on one. The Realtor hadn't mentioned the seller took out a 2nd on the property and wanted more than market. He has a renter and has positive cash flow, so he refused my offer. In the long run this was a good thing, but that was a long drive to come up empty. 7 Bays is right on Lake Roosevelt with its 650 miles of shore line. Below are some pictures of the place I put an offer on and the area. I just got back from a even longer drive in the opposite direction to Columbus, New Mexico. For the aviation history buffs, this was the 1st Aero Squadron for the US back in 1916. Within one section of land about 3 miles north of Columbus, there are 3 air parks. Hacienda Sur Luna Air Park has a paved and lighted 4800' runway, no HOA fees, and is considered the "high end" of the 3 air parks. All lots are either 2.5 acres or 5 acres, and the last pre-owned home and hangar sold last month for $70K. There is another home and hangar listed at $138K, but with that recent $70K sell, $138K is a stretch. Here is a video of the owner of the $70K home going for a short hop. The next air park is Windsock Estates and my friend Dick lives there and put me up for the two nights I was there. His is the nicest in this air park and his hangar is 80' X 60' and on 5 acres. He would consider selling at $200K. A few pictures of Dick's home. The final air park is 1st Aero Squadron Airpark and has the "cheap seats". The last two air parks have dirt/compacted gravel 5200' runways, both in great shape and maintained for free. Also no HOA fees. Dick's first place was here and it has changed hands twice over the years. The current owner doesn't get down much any more but never placed it on the market. Dick asked if he might want to sell it without even listing it and he replied "yes". All Jim wanted was what he bought it for years ago and said $45K~$50K. I split the difference and offered $47,500, and it was accepted, so now I have a home/hangar on 2.5 acres that is rather modest but will serve me just fine. The hangar is 60' X 40' with the home in the back plus a 2nd bedroom as a add on room outside the hangar's foot print. Only 725 square feet of living space, but it is only me. I've met a number of my neighbors, what a great earthy group. Summers aren't as hot as the location would indicate because it is on the southern section of the Continental Divide so elevation is 4200'. Mexico with all the cheap dentists, pharmacies, and optometrists are 6 miles south of the air parks. My new home/hangar I guess the purpose of this long post is for the folks that would like to retire at an air park and be able to do it on the cheap. I met Mary, Steve, Ron, and Dick, the common denominator is to fly on a tight budget. Flying takes 1st seat, ego, social status and keeping up with the Jones's doesn't even get a seat, my kind of folks.
    1 point
  34. Hello Martin! Welcome! I would love to have 17m extensions, and 90kts Vne is fine in that case. Bent or straight is okay. I'm sure you will maintain the good looks. My ship 15/23 is doing fine. A wonderful ship. I agree that we need many more in the USA. There seems to be a great demand.
    1 point
  35. A pilot friend turned me on to this website. I am embedding a viewer to give you an idea but you should check them out at link.
    1 point
  36. 1 point
  37. 5 Tips for Storing Your Plane for the Winter Reprinted from an AOPA Advertisement for AOPA Member Insurance Winter is in full swing, but there’s still time to prepare your aircraft for winter storage to ensure that it’s ready to go when spring flying season starts. Your best guidance comes from your A&P, but here are some tasks to consider with the goal of keeping corrosion and other damage to a minimum. Change the oil. It may seem counter-intuitive to change the oil now rather than starting with new oil come spring, but remember that the oil in your engine is old and contains dirt and contaminants that can cause rust and corrosion. Not only should you change the oil, but you should replace it with a preservative oil mixture. Then take a quick flight with your new oil to make sure the oil is distributed throughout your engine. Prepare your sparkplugs. Remove the sparkplugs and spray the holes with a preservative oil mixture. Then replace the original sparkplugs and they’ll be set for winter. Another item to consider is the airplane battery. It probably won’t hold the charge, at least enough of a charge, to start in the spring after sitting for a few months. Bringing the battery home and storing it out of a super-cold location is good. Or a trickle charger can be used every few weeks while it’s in the airplane to maintain the charge and enhance battery life. Guard against critters. Mice and other animals will seek refuge from the cold both in your hangar and in your airplane. Of course, no food of any kind that could provide enticement for pests should be left in your hangar or in your airplane. Plug all the holes. Use pitot tube covers and static vent covers, which will keep insects and dirt out that could later form a blockage. Plugging all holes will also prevent moisture that could get into your engine and cause corrosion. Cover what you can. Your airplane’s windows, canopy, prop blades, and tail should be covered. That will reduce damage to those surfaces, and also help reduce damage to the panel and upholstery caused by exposure to the sun and moisture from rain, ice, and snow. Keep the fuel tanks full. Storing your airplane with full fuel tanks reduces the moisture that can condense in a partially full tank. If your airplane has a flexible, rubber fuel bladder, a full tank will also minimize cracking. And don’t worry about the age of fuel. Most avgas is good up to a year. These five items are what you should do. But what shouldn’t you do during the winter storage period? Here’s one thing: Don’t “ground run” your airplane. It is tempting to visit your airplane every few weeks and start it up, thinking this is good for your airplane, but this is a bad idea. Ground running your airplane is not a substitute for an actual flight, where the engine heats to a uniform appropriate temperature. In fact, the uneven heating as a result of ground running is worse for your airplane than doing nothing at all. Leave it alone. Preparing your aircraft for its winter hibernation takes time and effort that will pay off when that first perfect spring flying day comes around again. Consult your pilot’s operating handbook, maintenance manuals, and your A&P for the best winter storage solutions for your particular make and model.
    1 point
  38. From the album: Tim Dews

    He got slow on the climb out and spun into the trees. His straps were not done up and when the aircraft hit the branch that you can see in the photo, he left the Grob through the screen. The engine was going at 3300 rpm but the prop had been smashed by the branch. He went through the prop disc and hit the ground before the aircraft. You can see all the dirt on the wing from the spinning stubs of the prop. He was very lucky to get away with a bust leg and a few smashed teeth. Had his straps been done up, I think he would have walked away from it.
    1 point
  39. Whisper Motorglider The motorglider prototype first flew in 2004. Of the 52 under construction 25 are already flying. Apart from being a very capable motorglider the Whisper is also a comfortable tourer with a massive cabin and a good turn of speed. The kit includes all the mouldings and other items that are difficult to manufacture yourself. Wings, tailplane and rudder are built using mouldless techniques and have a solid foam core. This allows for an inexpensive, yet enormously strong structure. During certification a motorglider wing was tested to 10.6g (more than 3000kg was loaded on one wing!) There are flying videos available in the dropbox (access via the pricing button on the home page). The preferred powerplant is the Rotax 912 (80Hp) matched with a Woodcomp variable pitch, feathering prop. Utilising the closing air inlets on the top cowl and with the prop feathered the 16m Whisper manages a very respectable 1:28 glide ratio which is about as good or better than any 2 seat tractor configured fixed gear motorglider in the world. Pictures on this page show GXW which was our first demonstrator (now in Australia) as well as our second demonstrator, FDI . GXW has a Limbach 2000 with Hoffman prop and FDI a Rotax with Woodcomp prop. [TABLE=class: alignleft][TR] [TD] Wing span [/TD] [TD=width: 312, align: left]16m[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 244] Length [/TD] [TD=width: 312, align: left]7.16m[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 244] Empty weight [/TD] [TD=width: 312] 530 kg [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 244, align: left]Max all up weight [/TD] [TD=width: 312] 775 kg [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 244] Fuel capacity [/TD] [TD=width: 312] 85 litres [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 244] Engine [/TD] [TD=width: 312] Rotax 912, Limbach or Jabiru [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 244] Prop [/TD] [TD=width: 312] Woodcomp, Hoffman 3 position or fixed pitch wooden. [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 244] Rate of Climb (gross weight at sea level) [/TD] [TD=width: 312] 3.6m/s (700ft/min) [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 244] Max level speed [/TD] [TD=width: 312, align: left]210km/h (113kts)[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 244, align: left]Cruise speed (75% power) [/TD] [TD=width: 312] 180km/h (95kts) [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 244] Vne [/TD] [TD=width: 312, align: left]250km/h (132kts)[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 244] Stall speed [/TD] [TD=width: 312, align: left]72km/h (38kts)[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 244, align: left] Va [/TD] [TD=width: 312, align: left] 160km/h (85kts) [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 244] Cruise fuel consumption [/TD] [TD=width: 312, align: left]12litres/hr (3.2USG/hr)[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 244, align: left]Range [/TD] [TD=width: 312] 1200km (no reserves) [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 244] Take off roll [/TD] [TD=width: 312, align: left]180m[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 244, align: left]Min sink speed [/TD] [TD=width: 312] 0.9m/s at 80km/h [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 244, align: left]Glide ratio [/TD] [TD=width: 312] 1:28 at 105km/h [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]
    1 point
  40. From the album: Sinus Videos

    Just over 200km flight before bringing the engine on again... Video Link:
    1 point
  41. No, just call Lockwood Aviation in Florida. 863-655-5100. Tell them what you have and they'll send you what you need. Basically, it's a short, molded hose and a meter or so of metric sized radiator hose that you'll cut into the pieces you need to replace your old hoses. It ain't cheap, but it's very good quality stuff and Rotax approved. One other thing I thought of regarding the hose clamps is Rotax recommends using "spring clamps" or "Corbin style" clamps as opposed to worm drive hose clamps on the radiator hoses. Here's what they look like: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Tools-Garage-and-Equipment/Hose-Clamp-Universal-Type/_/N-25vt?filterByKeyWord=Spring+hose+clamps&fromString=search The reason is because the aluminum fittings that the hoses plug onto expand and contract as the engine heats up and cools down. The worm drive style clamps don't allow for this expansion and end up crushing the hose, which will eventually leak. The spring clamps allow the aluminum fittings to expand and contract while keeping even pressure on the hose throughout the range. There's a tool to use on this style clamp. You can get one at any major auto parts store for around $30. The easy to reach clamps you can probably get with needle nose pliers or a small pair of Channel Locks, but to get at some of the clamps you'll almost have to have one of these tools. Here's what the tool looks like: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-Hose-clamp-pliers/_/N-26on?itemIdentifier=607069_0_0_
    1 point
  42. First of all, apologies about the long paragraph - the website is not responding to line feed requests. I spent some time yesterday at the NW EAA FlyIn at Arlington WA and attended an excellent forum on Rotax engine maintenance by Phil Lockwood of Lockwood Aviation in Sebring Florida. For someone who grew up with Lycomings and Continentals this was a major revelation to see how Rotax has raised the bar on efficiency and reliability. The main message was that these engines were remarkably well built, and that if one follows the recommended maintenance schedule, particularly oil changes, they should last forever. Even the 2000hr TBO engines he's seen rarely need replacement parts. I asked him some specific Phoenix-related questions that have not been entirely clear to me. The first was on engine burping and pulling through the prop prior to start. He said that normally he rarely does this, and it only really needs to be done if the oil is below the land (flat part) of the dipstick on inspection. The purpose of the burping is to pull all the oil back into the sump to get an accurate oil level for purposes of seeing if more needs to be added, and his experience is that it is rare to need do that between oil changes. Also, the prop does not have to be pulled through prior to start. In Lycoming and Continental engines that sometimes is recommended to coat the cylinder walls with a thin film of oil after an extended period of inactivity, but he said that the special coating on the 912 cylinder walls does not require any additional lubrication prior to start. So the rule is, basically, if you see enough oil on the land, go ahead and start without burping. The second issue comes up after soaring. I told him that the engine cools after extended soaring, and that, because I often land under power to be able to taxi, I have a long period of trying to get the oil back up to 120F, which is challenging if you are also descending under low power in cool air. He said that we don't need to worry about that. Unless you plan on doing touch and goes that require full power, he said it was fine to land and taxi with cooler oil temps. His cutoff point for needing 120F is 4000 RPM, so landing and taxi should be fine. He mentioned that he sometimes will take off at 4000 RPM even before the engine is fully warm. His only other major point was to be sure that the carbs are balanced since failure to do so puts asymmetric loads on the gear box and makes gear wear more likely. One other point got my attention. The Rotax water-cooled heads prevent shock cooling that is common on air-cooled engines, so the ultra-long, planned descents under significant power to gradually cool the engine aren't necessary with the 912ULS.
    1 point
  43. From the album: Roytol

    The new oil cooler was mounted on two aluminium angles on each side of the sump. Only existing holes or threaded holes wwwere used. I had to cut off a small alloy lug that stuck out from the bottom of the sump. It was not used for anything.The oil cooler was mounted with sheet silicone between the cooler and the mount to allow for expansion, etc.
    1 point
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