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Newshound

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Guys,

I have a new 912ULS installed in a homebuilt Aerospool Dynamic that I have just finished. The engine starts and runs like an electric motor. I do have a question about the Soft Start module. I think I have heard that the soft start feature was incorporated by the factory on late model 912ULS engines. My engine was built in 2011. Any idea if this late an engine already has this feature?

Thanks very much,

Brad

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Guys,

I have a new 912ULS installed in a homebuilt Aerospool Dynamic that I have just finished. The engine starts and runs like an electric motor. I do have a question about the Soft Start module. I think I have heard that the soft start feature was incorporated by the factory on late model 912ULS engines. My engine was built in 2011. Any idea if this late an engine already has this feature?

Thanks very much,

Brad

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I cannot find the video showing how to test the friction torque on a 912. Has it been removed when I need it most or could it be that my connection is operating at 2 bits per minute?

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I cannot find the video showing how to test the friction torque on a 912. Has it been removed when I need it most or could it be that my connection is operating at 2 bits per minute?

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When my 914 was brand new needle position was #3 on oneside and #2 on the other. Fellow LAME (licensed aircraft maintenance engineer) thought Rotax had made a mistake and made them both even. Subsequently have found this is done by Rotax to counter difference in temps between cylinder banks.

Problem is - I cannot remember which side was what, it is somewhere in the documentation but have been unable to locate this information.

Would like to try the needle positions as originally set by Rotax. Guidance as to what side has what needle position would be appreciated.

Cheers and thanks

Peter Armstrong

Auckland, New Zealand

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When my 914 was brand new needle position was #3 on oneside and #2 on the other. Fellow LAME (licensed aircraft maintenance engineer) thought Rotax had made a mistake and made them both even. Subsequently have found this is done by Rotax to counter difference in temps between cylinder banks.

Problem is - I cannot remember which side was what, it is somewhere in the documentation but have been unable to locate this information.

Would like to try the needle positions as originally set by Rotax. Guidance as to what side has what needle position would be appreciated.

Cheers and thanks

Peter Armstrong

Auckland, New Zealand

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Last week I again synchronize the carburetors on my Rotax 912 UL powered Skyranger. After getting the carbs synchronized, I always find it difficult to safety-wire the throttle cables in the manner shown in the Rotax videos because of their location in my engine compartment and the status of my back . I am older now and just have a hell of a time contorting myself in the positions needed to accomplish this safety-wiring task on my aircraft. Is there a "gadget" available or alternative method to the Rotax safety-wire technique that can be used to fix the position of the throttle cables?

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Last week I again synchronize the carburetors on my Rotax 912 UL powered Skyranger. After getting the carbs synchronized, I always find it difficult to safety-wire the throttle cables in the manner shown in the Rotax videos because of their location in my engine compartment and the status of my back . I am older now and just have a hell of a time contorting myself in the positions needed to accomplish this safety-wiring task on my aircraft. Is there a "gadget" available or alternative method to the Rotax safety-wire technique that can be used to fix the position of the throttle cables?

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I just pulled and inspected the spark plugs on the Rotax 912ULS installed on my Sport Cruiser. The plugs on cylinders 2, 3 and 4 are all the normal grey/white color. However the plugs from cylinder 1 are sooty black indicating, I understand, that the mixture is to rich. Any idea why this is occuring since both clyinder 1 and 3 are on the same carburetor? The plugs have 100 hours on them.

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I just pulled and inspected the spark plugs on the Rotax 912ULS installed on my Sport Cruiser. The plugs on cylinders 2, 3 and 4 are all the normal grey/white color. However the plugs from cylinder 1 are sooty black indicating, I understand, that the mixture is to rich. Any idea why this is occuring since both clyinder 1 and 3 are on the same carburetor? The plugs have 100 hours on them.

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I have 912ULS which has had a vibration since new. This has broken engine mounting bolts, cooler brackets, warp drive blade at the hub and so on. When in desperation i had the engine dissassembled at 200 hours, it was discovered that the following were faulty: 1) Camshaft wearing due to improper manufacture 2) Crank web not aligned 3)Main gearbox bearing shot - axial and lateral play 4) Soft valves. And this is an effectively new engine. My research indicates that Rotax has since changed the suppliers of a number of these parts, but have not advised clients. Additionally there is emerging comments on porous heads and other problems. I am waiting to see if Rotax will cover the costs of the labour but they seem resistant - they have replaced the parts at this stage. A friend of mine had so many problems the factory replaced the entire engine - I would be interested to know if anyone else has had manufacturing issues on these motors and the outcome visa vis the factory. angry.png

I bought Rotax thinking it was the best possible engine,as I have small children and dont want to give up flying, but am now converting to a BMW motor- 120hp at 9l/hour burn, fuel injected in the hope I can fly more that scratch my head over the next problem. smile.png

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I have 912ULS which has had a vibration since new. This has broken engine mounting bolts, cooler brackets, warp drive blade at the hub and so on. When in desperation i had the engine dissassembled at 200 hours, it was discovered that the following were faulty: 1) Camshaft wearing due to improper manufacture 2) Crank web not aligned 3)Main gearbox bearing shot - axial and lateral play 4) Soft valves. And this is an effectively new engine. My research indicates that Rotax has since changed the suppliers of a number of these parts, but have not advised clients. Additionally there is emerging comments on porous heads and other problems. I am waiting to see if Rotax will cover the costs of the labour but they seem resistant - they have replaced the parts at this stage. A friend of mine had so many problems the factory replaced the entire engine - I would be interested to know if anyone else has had manufacturing issues on these motors and the outcome visa vis the factory. angry.png

I bought Rotax thinking it was the best possible engine,as I have small children and dont want to give up flying, but am now converting to a BMW motor- 120hp at 9l/hour burn, fuel injected in the hope I can fly more that scratch my head over the next problem. smile.png

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Hi first post here.

Also, it is a ROTAX question but not aircraft. I hope that is OK.

I have a type 537 engine, 521 cc liquid cooled. I had a piston failure as a result of a torn carb boot.

The failed piston was wiseco which had the ring ends missing all the intake ports.

The replacement is Kimpex and has the lower ring end over an intake port (2 ring piston).

I found a used Elko piston, which is suppose to be stock/original. It is like the Kimpex with the ring end over an intake port.

The intake port in question is 180 degrees from the center of the exhaust port.

I am a beginner and have been told the ring ends are never over a port.

Any comments would be appreciated.

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Hi first post here.

Also, it is a ROTAX question but not aircraft. I hope that is OK.

I have a type 537 engine, 521 cc liquid cooled. I had a piston failure as a result of a torn carb boot.

The failed piston was wiseco which had the ring ends missing all the intake ports.

The replacement is Kimpex and has the lower ring end over an intake port (2 ring piston).

I found a used Elko piston, which is suppose to be stock/original. It is like the Kimpex with the ring end over an intake port.

The intake port in question is 180 degrees from the center of the exhaust port.

I am a beginner and have been told the ring ends are never over a port.

Any comments would be appreciated.

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I recently bought an ultralight that was kitted new in 1997 and never completed. I am nearly ready to break in the 447 Rotax. The engine manual is very specific in running about 63 minutes at specific RPM's for a specific amount of time.It is the original Rotax manual that was included with the engine package,so does this still hold true today? Also I bought Pennzoil 2-stroke oil for the 50/1 mix. I have read a lot of forums and this seems to be the one most often recommended and it is easily bought at auto parts store. any thoughts?----------rick

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I recently bought an ultralight that was kitted new in 1997 and never completed. I am nearly ready to break in the 447 Rotax. The engine manual is very specific in running about 63 minutes at specific RPM's for a specific amount of time.It is the original Rotax manual that was included with the engine package,so does this still hold true today? Also I bought Pennzoil 2-stroke oil for the 50/1 mix. I have read a lot of forums and this seems to be the one most often recommended and it is easily bought at auto parts store. any thoughts?----------rick

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I am trouble shooting high CHT readings in a RV-12 installation for a friend. Dynon D-180 Instrumentation. I believe it is an indication problem and the engine is NOT overheating. The aircraft has been flown once around the pattern five separate times in a one year period. All parts are supplied by Van's. Could the CHT thermocouples be not compatiable with the Dynon? or might there be Dynon programing that is required. Might getting thermocouples from Dynon fix the problem? The carb's have been mechanically & pneumatically synchronized. DexCool coolant.

Looking for answers.

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I am trouble shooting high CHT readings in a RV-12 installation for a friend. Dynon D-180 Instrumentation. I believe it is an indication problem and the engine is NOT overheating. The aircraft has been flown once around the pattern five separate times in a one year period. All parts are supplied by Van's. Could the CHT thermocouples be not compatiable with the Dynon? or might there be Dynon programing that is required. Might getting thermocouples from Dynon fix the problem? The carb's have been mechanically & pneumatically synchronized. DexCool coolant.

Looking for answers.

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Hello again,

after eight months of modifying my Europa classic with 912S I am back in the air again.

My flight inspector said after he test flew the aircraft: "funny aircraft but be careful with your payload, it is absolutely not overpowered!"

Well, I thought that impression you will get when you are used to turboprops, like he is.

But today it was me who made the same painful experience.

It is not so easy to realize the lack of with a CS prop but my europa now climbs solo as before with passenger and it seams the have all shortened the runways.

After my last flight today I opened the cowling after half an hour on ground and even the top of the carbs have been that hot you could not leave your hand on them.

Now it is clear for me: I need a stopcock to use the hot water only when needed.

But I wonder if it is only the heat that is responsible for the lack of power

or also the longer suction tube ( don't know the right English term).

Has anybody made similar experiences.

Tomorrow I have my test flight with the flight instructor but I will not let him in before I have got it fixed.

Thank you

Juergen

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