Cockpit Noise - Jan 2008

The last to flights I had a terribly loud and (high-frequency) whistling noise
in the cockpit that can not be tolerated even with my headset using noise
cancellation.

======================================================

Date:         Wed, 23 Jan 2008 18:39:53 -0700
Reply-To:     "Ximango Owners Group (XOG)" <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
Sender:       "Ximango Owners Group (XOG)" <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
From:         "Hermann F. Fasel" <faselh@EMAIL.ARIZONA.EDU>
Subject:      Cockpit noise
In-Reply-To:  <003901c85e10$441147d0$0401a8c0@xphome>
MIME-Version: 1.0
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The last to flights I had a terribly loud and (high-frequency) whistling noise
in the cockpit that can not be tolerated even with my headset using noise
cancellation. THe noise occurs both with engine on or off and starts
soon after
takeoff and stops after landing and seems to be insensitive to flight
speed and
plane attitude.
Has anybody experienced anything like that?

Hermann


Hermann F. Fasel
Aerospace & Mechanical Engineering
University of Arizona
Tucson, Arizona 85721

Tel.: 520-621-2771
Fax: 520-621-8191


Quoting paul harrington <energy@WHITSUNDAY.NET.AU>:

> I have never had trouble starting my engine, but then I live in the tropics.
> Do you have trouble restarting in the air after an extended soaring session?
> Regards, Paul H.   P.S. Still cannot see the need for wrapping the exhaust.
> Have been running my ceramic coated pipes unwrapped for 3 1/2 years with no
> trouble and pipes are easy to inspect. My LAME is of the same opinion. Max
> temperature that I have seen in the engine space is 51 deg C .
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ximango Owners Group (XOG) [mailto:XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM] On
> Behalf Of John Lawton
> Sent: Wednesday, 23 January 2008 9:44 PM
> To: XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM
> Subject: Engine mount torque values and preheaters
>
> Greetings Team,
>
> Off hand, does anybody know the torque values for the engine mount bolts?
> I'm talking about the DIN cap screw bolts that go through the rubber
> mounts.
> I've looked through all the documentation that came with my bird, but no
> joy.
> My engine is sagging a bit up front, causing a slight misalignment  (1/4" or
>
> so) between the cowl and the spinner. I'm currently replacing the  exhaust
> wrap
> and since I've got the cowls off I thought I'd replace the front  two rubber
>
> bushings, since they seem to be the source of the sag.  Any info  anyone can
>
> provide regarding the torque values of these bolts is  appreciated.
>
> In regard to heaters, I agree. I've always preheated every airplane  engine
> I've owned, Lycoming, Continental, Jabiru and now Rotax. It makes a  world
> of
> difference on frosty mornings. Prior to the Ximango, I had a  Pawnee with an
>
> O-540 and high compression pistons that we used to tow  gliders here at my
> strip. That Pawnee was head and shoulders stronger than any  of the others
> I've
> flown, but it simply would not start when it was  cold. Preheating did the
> trick.
> It used both an E-Z Heat oil pan  heater and a Tannis block heater.  I don't
>
> think either is available for  the 912S, though.
>
> So, in lieu of that, I use a small, 125W heat pad on the oil  tank,
> "temporarily" taped to the side of the tank with  aluminum tape, then routed
> the cord
> out of the way of anything that would  be hot when the engine is running.
> The
> pad is not stuck to the side of  the tank with it's own adhesive. I peeled
> the
> adhesive cover on the pad  and mated aluminum tape to it, sticky side to
> sticky side, then taped it to  the side of the oil reservoir using the
> aluminum
> tape so that it would  not be permanent, but it would be reusable. I then
> routed
> the cord of the 125W  pad and zip tied it's plug to the engine mount frame
> down  near the cowl flap so that it is accessible from the cowl flap when
> open,
> but  it does not interfere with the operation of the cowl flap.
>
> Since there is no oil pan on the 912, I also use a 250W pad mounted to  a
> piece of .025" aluminum plate which slides in-between the stainless heat
> shield
> above the muffler and below the engine block. This radiates heat up into
> the
> engine block and heats it up nicely. Once the engine is hot,  unplug both
> and
> a gentle tug on the cord of the 250W pad removes it  through the cowl flap.
> I
> set these on a timer to come on an hour and a half  to two hours before I
> want
> to fly and, then throw an old sleeping bag over  the cowl. The engine and
> oil
> heat up to about 130F and it starts  up like a warm summer day, even at 20F
> outside temps.
>
> No need to worry about over heating, as both pads are thermostatically
> controlled internally. Both of these heater pads are automotive in origin
> and are
> available for about $100 total from JC Whitney. Interestingly,  they are
> identical to the STC'd pads sold for Lycoming and Continental through  E-Z
> Heat and
> Aircraft Spruce, only less than half the price. Here's a link  to JC Whitney
>
> and the pads I use:
>
> _http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.C
> AT
> ENTRY_ID:2005253/p-2005253/N-111+10201+600001648/c-10101_
> (http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.C
> ATENTRY_ID:2005253/p-2
> 005253/N-111+10201+600001648/c-10101)
>
>
> Anyway, hope it helps!
>
> Regards,
>
> John  Lawton
> Whitwell, TN (TN89)
> Ximango #135
>
> PS - If anybody is interested in seeing the Europa I built,  N245E, it's in
> the February '08 edition of Kitplanes in the "Completions"  section.
>
>
>
> **************Start the year off right.  Easy ways to stay in shape.
> http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
>
>
> --
> This message has been scanned for viruses and
> dangerous content by MailScanner, and is
> believed to be clean.
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.10/1240 - Release Date: 23/01/2008
> 5:47 PM
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.10/1240 - Release Date: 23/01/2008
> 5:47 PM
=========================================================================
Date:         Wed, 23 Jan 2008 17:58:26 -0800
Reply-To:     "Ximango Owners Group (XOG)" <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
Sender:       "Ximango Owners Group (XOG)" <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
From:         Holliday Obrecht <HollidayObrecht@COPPER.NET>
Subject:      Re: Cockpit noise
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"

Hermann,

The times I have experienced strange whistling noises and buzzes (that really get your attention!)is when the wing root sealing tapes loosened up in flight or when the large aluminum rivet came out on the front of one of my fairings at the wing fold joint.

Hope this helps,
Holliday



--- faselh@EMAIL.ARIZONA.EDU wrote:

From: "Hermann F. Fasel" <faselh@EMAIL.ARIZONA.EDU>
To: XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM
Subject: Cockpit noise
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 18:39:53 -0700

The last to flights I had a terribly loud and (high-frequency) whistling noise
in the cockpit that can not be tolerated even with my headset using noise
cancellation. THe noise occurs both with engine on or off and starts
soon after
takeoff and stops after landing and seems to be insensitive to flight
speed and
plane attitude.
Has anybody experienced anything like that?

Hermann


Hermann F. Fasel
Aerospace & Mechanical Engineering
University of Arizona
Tucson, Arizona 85721

Tel.: 520-621-2771
Fax: 520-621-8191


Quoting paul harrington <energy@WHITSUNDAY.NET.AU>:

> I have never had trouble starting my engine, but then I live in the tropics.
> Do you have trouble restarting in the air after an extended soaring session?
> Regards, Paul H. P.S. Still cannot see the need for wrapping the exhaust.
> Have been running my ceramic coated pipes unwrapped for 3 1/2 years with no
> trouble and pipes are easy to inspect. My LAME is of the same opinion. Max
> temperature that I have seen in the engine space is 51 deg C .
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ximango Owners Group (XOG) [mailto:XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM] On
> Behalf Of John Lawton
> Sent: Wednesday, 23 January 2008 9:44 PM
> To: XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM
> Subject: Engine mount torque values and preheaters
>
> Greetings Team,
>
> Off hand, does anybody know the torque values for the engine mount bolts?
> I'm talking about the DIN cap screw bolts that go through the rubber
> mounts.
> I've looked through all the documentation that came with my bird, but no
> joy.
> My engine is sagging a bit up front, causing a slight misalignment (1/4" or
>
> so) between the cowl and the spinner. I'm currently replacing the exhaust
> wrap
> and since I've got the cowls off I thought I'd replace the front two rubber
>
> bushings, since they seem to be the source of the sag. Any info anyone can
>
> provide regarding the torque values of these bolts is appreciated.
>
> In regard to heaters, I agree. I've always preheated every airplane engine
> I've owned, Lycoming, Continental, Jabiru and now Rotax. It makes a world
> of
> difference on frosty mornings. Prior to the Ximango, I had a Pawnee with an
>
> O-540 and high compression pistons that we used to tow gliders here at my
> strip. That Pawnee was head and shoulders stronger than any of the others
> I've
> flown, but it simply would not start when it was cold. Preheating did the
> trick.
> It used both an E-Z Heat oil pan heater and a Tannis block heater. I don't
>
> think either is available for the 912S, though.
>
> So, in lieu of that, I use a small, 125W heat pad on the oil tank,
> "temporarily" taped to the side of the tank with aluminum tape, then routed
> the cord
> out of the way of anything that would be hot when the engine is running.
> The
> pad is not stuck to the side of the tank with it's own adhesive. I peeled
> the
> adhesive cover on the pad and mated aluminum tape to it, sticky side to
> sticky side, then taped it to the side of the oil reservoir using the
> aluminum
> tape so that it would not be permanent, but it would be reusable. I then
> routed
> the cord of the 125W pad and zip tied it's plug to the engine mount frame
> down near the cowl flap so that it is accessible from the cowl flap when
> open,
> but it does not interfere with the operation of the cowl flap.
>
> Since there is no oil pan on the 912, I also use a 250W pad mounted to a
> piece of .025" aluminum plate which slides in-between the stainless heat
> shield
> above the muffler and below the engine block. This radiates heat up into
> the
> engine block and heats it up nicely. Once the engine is hot, unplug both
> and
> a gentle tug on the cord of the 250W pad removes it through the cowl flap.
> I
> set these on a timer to come on an hour and a half to two hours before I
> want
> to fly and, then throw an old sleeping bag over the cowl. The engine and
> oil
> heat up to about 130F and it starts up like a warm summer day, even at 20F
> outside temps.
>
> No need to worry about over heating, as both pads are thermostatically
> controlled internally. Both of these heater pads are automotive in origin
> and are
> available for about $100 total from JC Whitney. Interestingly, they are
> identical to the STC'd pads sold for Lycoming and Continental through E-Z
> Heat and
> Aircraft Spruce, only less than half the price. Here's a link to JC Whitney
>
> and the pads I use:
>
> _http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.C
> AT
> ENTRY_ID:2005253/p-2005253/N-111+10201+600001648/c-10101_
> (http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.C
> ATENTRY_ID:2005253/p-2
> 005253/N-111+10201+600001648/c-10101)
>
>
> Anyway, hope it helps!
>
> Regards,
>
> John Lawton
> Whitwell, TN (TN89)
> Ximango #135
>
> PS - If anybody is interested in seeing the Europa I built, N245E, it's in
> the February '08 edition of Kitplanes in the "Completions" section.
>
>
>
> **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
> http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
>
>
> --
> This message has been scanned for viruses and
> dangerous content by MailScanner, and is
> believed to be clean.
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.10/1240 - Release Date: 23/01/2008
> 5:47 PM
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.10/1240 - Release Date: 23/01/2008
> 5:47 PM
=========================================================================
Date:         Thu, 24 Jan 2008 13:43:24 -0700
Reply-To:     "Ximango Owners Group (XOG)" <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
Sender:       "Ximango Owners Group (XOG)" <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
From:         "Hermann F. Fasel" <faselh@EMAIL.ARIZONA.EDU>
Subject:      Re: Cockpit noise
In-Reply-To:  <20080123175826.9FDFC040@resin17.mta.everyone.net>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"; format="flowed"
Content-Disposition: inline
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Holliday,

thanks. I have checked the wing tape and the wing fold rivets -
everything fine
there.

Hermann

Hermann F. Fasel
Aerospace & Mechanical Engineering
University of Arizona
Tucson, Arizona 85721

Tel.: 520-621-2771
Fax: 520-621-8191


Quoting Holliday Obrecht <HollidayObrecht@COPPER.NET>:

> Hermann,
>
> The times I have experienced strange whistling noises and buzzes
> (that really get your attention!)is when the wing root sealing tapes
> loosened up in flight or when the large aluminum rivet came out on
> the front of one of my fairings at the wing fold joint.
>
> Hope this helps,
> Holliday
>
>
>
> --- faselh@EMAIL.ARIZONA.EDU wrote:
>
> From: "Hermann F. Fasel" <faselh@EMAIL.ARIZONA.EDU>
> To: XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM
> Subject: Cockpit noise
> Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 18:39:53 -0700
>
> The last to flights I had a terribly loud and (high-frequency)
> whistling noise
> in the cockpit that can not be tolerated even with my headset using noise
> cancellation. THe noise occurs both with engine on or off and starts
> soon after
> takeoff and stops after landing and seems to be insensitive to flight
> speed and
> plane attitude.
> Has anybody experienced anything like that?
>
> Hermann
>
>
> Hermann F. Fasel
> Aerospace & Mechanical Engineering
> University of Arizona
> Tucson, Arizona 85721
>
> Tel.: 520-621-2771
> Fax: 520-621-8191
>
>
> Quoting paul harrington <energy@WHITSUNDAY.NET.AU>:
>
>> I have never had trouble starting my engine, but then I live in the tropics.
>> Do you have trouble restarting in the air after an extended soaring session?
>> Regards, Paul H. P.S. Still cannot see the need for wrapping the exhaust.
>> Have been running my ceramic coated pipes unwrapped for 3 1/2 years with no
>> trouble and pipes are easy to inspect. My LAME is of the same opinion. Max
>> temperature that I have seen in the engine space is 51 deg C .
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Ximango Owners Group (XOG) [mailto:XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM] On
>> Behalf Of John Lawton
>> Sent: Wednesday, 23 January 2008 9:44 PM
>> To: XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM
>> Subject: Engine mount torque values and preheaters
>>
>> Greetings Team,
>>
>> Off hand, does anybody know the torque values for the engine mount bolts?
>> I'm talking about the DIN cap screw bolts that go through the rubber
>> mounts.
>> I've looked through all the documentation that came with my bird, but no
>> joy.
>> My engine is sagging a bit up front, causing a slight misalignment (1/4" or
>>
>> so) between the cowl and the spinner. I'm currently replacing the exhaust
>> wrap
>> and since I've got the cowls off I thought I'd replace the front two rubber
>>
>> bushings, since they seem to be the source of the sag. Any info anyone can
>>
>> provide regarding the torque values of these bolts is appreciated.
>>
>> In regard to heaters, I agree. I've always preheated every airplane engine
>> I've owned, Lycoming, Continental, Jabiru and now Rotax. It makes a world
>> of
>> difference on frosty mornings. Prior to the Ximango, I had a Pawnee with an
>>
>> O-540 and high compression pistons that we used to tow gliders here at my
>> strip. That Pawnee was head and shoulders stronger than any of the others
>> I've
>> flown, but it simply would not start when it was cold. Preheating did the
>> trick.
>> It used both an E-Z Heat oil pan heater and a Tannis block heater. I don't
>>
>> think either is available for the 912S, though.
>>
>> So, in lieu of that, I use a small, 125W heat pad on the oil tank,
>> "temporarily" taped to the side of the tank with aluminum tape, then routed
>> the cord
>> out of the way of anything that would be hot when the engine is running.
>> The
>> pad is not stuck to the side of the tank with it's own adhesive. I peeled
>> the
>> adhesive cover on the pad and mated aluminum tape to it, sticky side to
>> sticky side, then taped it to the side of the oil reservoir using the
>> aluminum
>> tape so that it would not be permanent, but it would be reusable. I then
>> routed
>> the cord of the 125W pad and zip tied it's plug to the engine mount frame
>> down near the cowl flap so that it is accessible from the cowl flap when
>> open,
>> but it does not interfere with the operation of the cowl flap.
>>
>> Since there is no oil pan on the 912, I also use a 250W pad mounted to a
>> piece of .025" aluminum plate which slides in-between the stainless heat
>> shield
>> above the muffler and below the engine block. This radiates heat up into
>> the
>> engine block and heats it up nicely. Once the engine is hot, unplug both
>> and
>> a gentle tug on the cord of the 250W pad removes it through the cowl flap.
>> I
>> set these on a timer to come on an hour and a half to two hours before I
>> want
>> to fly and, then throw an old sleeping bag over the cowl. The engine and
>> oil
>> heat up to about 130F and it starts up like a warm summer day, even at 20F
>> outside temps.
>>
>> No need to worry about over heating, as both pads are thermostatically
>> controlled internally. Both of these heater pads are automotive in origin
>> and are
>> available for about $100 total from JC Whitney. Interestingly, they are
>> identical to the STC'd pads sold for Lycoming and Continental through E-Z
>> Heat and
>> Aircraft Spruce, only less than half the price. Here's a link to JC Whitney
>>
>> and the pads I use:
>>
>> _http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.C
>> AT
>> ENTRY_ID:2005253/p-2005253/N-111+10201+600001648/c-10101_
>> (http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.C
>> ATENTRY_ID:2005253/p-2
>> 005253/N-111+10201+600001648/c-10101)
>>
>>
>> Anyway, hope it helps!
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> John Lawton
>> Whitwell, TN (TN89)
>> Ximango #135
>>
>> PS - If anybody is interested in seeing the Europa I built, N245E, it's in
>> the February '08 edition of Kitplanes in the "Completions" section.
>>
>>
>>
>> **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
>> http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
>>
>>
>> --
>> This message has been scanned for viruses and
>> dangerous content by MailScanner, and is
>> believed to be clean.
>>
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.10/1240 - Release Date: 23/01/2008
>> 5:47 PM
>>
>>