Coolant - Feb 2005

If you have not previously registered with the group (free) then please =
do so.  I had but had changed e-mail addresses afterwards so did not get =
the notification.

===================================================

Date:         Sun, 20 Feb 2005 10:05:18 -0700
Reply-To:     Ximango Owners Group <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
Sender:       Ximango Owners Group <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
From:         Jim Durango <jim.durango@JIMTEC.NET>
Subject:      Coolant
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Hi Group,

Some of us missed being notified of the Rotax Mandatory Service Bulletin =
requiring a change to  Evans NPG+ ($25 plus shipping for the gallon you =
will need).  It is covered under SB-912-043 (same for 914 turbos).  For =
those that have not yet complied, go to www.rotax-owner.com and click on =
SERVICE DOCUMENT RETRIEVAL SYSTEM.  You can search several ways =
including "All 4 Stroke Service Bulletins" and read SB-912-043 issued =
September 2004.  Evans web site is www.evanscooling.com

If you have not previously registered with the group (free) then please =
do so.  I had but had changed e-mail addresses afterwards so did not get =
the notification.  I am just assuming there may be other Ximango Owners =
out there that also missed it or may just recently have acquired their =
bird.

Cheers  Jim McCann
=========================================================================
Date:         Sun, 27 Mar 2005 14:59:08 -0700
Reply-To:     Ximango Owners Group <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
Sender:       Ximango Owners Group <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
From:         Jim Durango <jim.durango@JIMTEC.NET>
Subject:      coolant
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I can confirm what several owners have reported concerning slightly =
higher coolant temperatures with the new coolant vs glycol.  156 ran at =
205 to 210 with the antifreeze 50/50 while the Evans coolant results in =
220 to 225.

Jim
=========================================================================
Date:         Mon, 28 Mar 2005 19:10:53 EST
Reply-To:     Ximango Owners Group <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
Sender:       Ximango Owners Group <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
From:         XimangoUSA@AOL.COM
Subject:      Re: coolant
Comments: cc: heinzpeier@mindspring.com
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Jim,

Surprise!  Is it cooler or hotter than glycol??

Chuck

=========================================================================
Date:         Wed, 30 Mar 2005 00:46:57 -0500
Reply-To:     Ximango Owners Group <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
Sender:       Ximango Owners Group <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
From:         Rob Morgan <LS484@AOL.COM>
Subject:      Coolant

I too have noticed slightly higher cylinder head temps after having changed
the coolant from the 50/50 glycol/distilled water mix to NPG+.  This
doesn't make me too happy, since I regularly fly in an area that is known
to be very hot during the soaring season.  The NPG+ coolant may be good for
the life of the engine, but I wonder if the life of the engine will be
compromised by running higher average cylinder head temps.  My cylinder
head temps used to be rock solid in the middle of the green.  I now run 25%
higher in the green.  Does anyone know if Rotax and or Aeromot did any
testing of the NPG+ coolant before issuance of the Mandatory Service
Bulletin?
=========================================================================
Date:         Sun, 20 Feb 2005 17:06:30 -0700
Reply-To:     Ximango Owners Group <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
Sender:       Ximango Owners Group <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
From:         Jim Durango <jim.durango@JIMTEC.NET>
Subject:      Re: Coolant
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jim --
much appreciate the reminder.
if i may, do you know...
1. how NPG+ is needed?
2. how best to get the old antifreeze out?
 many thanks, Bruce

Bruce,
1 - Rotax feels it is a better way to eliminate some coolant problems  I
think the best explanation of the superiority of NPG+ can be read by
clicking on the following link:  http://www.evanscooling.com/main3.htm
Some discussion concerning race car usage, race motorcycle usage, etc. can
be found on some of their other pages and makes interesting reading.

2 -  The following was provided to me by Russ Hustead who has done three
Xtremes along with an AMT-200S.  Items one and two do not apply to Ximangos
but some items are helpful.  I just got the coolant so I haven't personally
done one yet.  The notes in all caps are mine.

 From Russ:  Evans has a flush if you go that route (I don't think you have
too, the engine drains well, but it is a lot of work as described below)
Evans has told me they are more concerned about left over coolant than
water, the residual water will just boil off so you need to check the level
frequently during the first few hours. One trick to boil off the residual
water is to leave the expansion tank cap off and ground run the engine until
it gets hot (over 212F). You should probably cover the radiator with
cardboard to speed this up.

  1.. Remove muffler - WE DON'T HAVE ONE!  Remove drain bolt from water pump
(rear low point of engine).
  2.. Lower tail to completely drain engine. OUR TAIL IS ALREADY LOWERED.
  3.. Drain and rinse the overflow bottle. (this particular one needed to be
removed and about a half hour of scrubbing inside to get clean)
  4.. Remove and flush the coolant radiator with bottled water. (RO, not the
healthy stuff with minerals in it, or use distilled water if you can find
it)
  5.. Flush engine with bottled water OR EVEN BETTER, WITH EVANS "PREP"
($16.50 GAL)
  6.. Raise and lower the tail several times to completely drain engine.
AGAIN - OURS IS ALREADY LOWERED.
  7.. Clean the expansion tank cap and apply the "No water" sticker that
Evans sends with the coolant.  IF YOU HAVE A RECENT MODEL WITH THE "LOW
COOLANT LEVEL" PROBE IN THE EXPANSION TANK, THEN REMOVE AND CLEAN IT AT THE
SAME TIME.  IT WILL BE INTERESTING TO SEE IF THE FILM THAT HAS BEEN BUILDING
UP ON THEM NO LONGER OCCURS WITH THE NPG+.
  8.. Reassemble and service coolant system with NPG+.
It would be best to get a new gasket for the coolant pump drain and 4
exhaust nuts.  Lockwood or other authorized Rotax agents should have them.

Perhaps our Ximango USA mechanic and Rotax Guru, Keith Philips, will provide
some additional tips on the process.

JIM
=========================================================================
Date:         Sun, 20 Feb 2005 20:42:32 -0500
Reply-To:     Ximango Owners Group <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
Sender:       Ximango Owners Group <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
From:         Bruce Schimmel <bruce@SCHIMMEL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Coolant
In-Reply-To:  <006401c517a9$32ce2610$0368a8c0@G>
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Jim,

Thank you soooo much for the info, which I'll share with Robbie, my
A&P/IA. No reason pilots *and* mechanics shouldn't use all available
information.

Like you, I'm hoping to hear from other gurus.

Thanks, Bruce




On Feb 20, 2005, at 19:06, Jim Durango wrote:

> jim --
> much appreciate the reminder.
> if i may, do you know...
> 1. how NPG+ is needed?
> 2. how best to get the old antifreeze out?
> many thanks, Bruce
>
> Bruce,
> 1 - Rotax feels it is a better way to eliminate some coolant problems 
> I think the best explanation of the superiority of NPG+ can be read by
> clicking on the following link:  http://www.evanscooling.com/main3.htm
> Some discussion concerning race car usage, race motorcycle usage, etc.
> can be found on some of their other pages and makes interesting
> reading.
>
> 2 -  The following was provided to me by Russ Hustead who has done
> three Xtremes along with an AMT-200S.  Items one and two do not apply
> to Ximangos but some items are helpful.  I just got the coolant so I
> haven't personally done one yet.  The notes in all caps are mine.
>
> From Russ:  Evans has a flush if you go that route (I don't think you
> have too, the engine drains well, but it is a lot of work as described
> below)
> Evans has told me they are more concerned about left over coolant than
> water, the residual water will just boil off so you need to check the
> level frequently during the first few hours. One trick to boil off the
> residual water is to leave the expansion tank cap off and ground run
> the engine until it gets hot (over 212F). You should probably cover
> the radiator with cardboard to speed this up.
>
>  1.. Remove muffler - WE DON'T HAVE ONE!  Remove drain bolt from water
> pump (rear low point of engine).
>  2.. Lower tail to completely drain engine. OUR TAIL IS ALREADY
> LOWERED.
>  3.. Drain and rinse the overflow bottle. (this particular one needed
> to be removed and about a half hour of scrubbing inside to get clean)
>  4.. Remove and flush the coolant radiator with bottled water. (RO,
> not the healthy stuff with minerals in it, or use distilled water if
> you can find it)
>  5.. Flush engine with bottled water OR EVEN BETTER, WITH EVANS "PREP"
> ($16.50 GAL)
>  6.. Raise and lower the tail several times to completely drain
> engine. AGAIN - OURS IS ALREADY LOWERED.
>  7.. Clean the expansion tank cap and apply the "No water" sticker
> that Evans sends with the coolant.  IF YOU HAVE A RECENT MODEL WITH
> THE "LOW COOLANT LEVEL" PROBE IN THE EXPANSION TANK, THEN REMOVE AND
> CLEAN IT AT THE SAME TIME.  IT WILL BE INTERESTING TO SEE IF THE FILM
> THAT HAS BEEN BUILDING UP ON THEM NO LONGER OCCURS WITH THE NPG+.
>  8.. Reassemble and service coolant system with NPG+.
> It would be best to get a new gasket for the coolant pump drain and 4
> exhaust nuts.  Lockwood or other authorized Rotax agents should have
> them.
>
> Perhaps our Ximango USA mechanic and Rotax Guru, Keith Philips, will
> provide some additional tips on the process.
>
> JIM
>