I have never had trouble starting my engine, but then I live in the tropics.
Do you have trouble restarting in the air after an extended soaring session?
Regards, Paul H.
=============================================
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 08:35:31 +1000
Reply-To: "Ximango Owners Group (XOG)" <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
Sender: "Ximango Owners Group (XOG)" <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
From: paul harrington <energy@WHITSUNDAY.NET.AU>
Subject: Re: Engine mount torque values and preheaters
In-Reply-To: <bc0.253237e6.34c88287@aol.com>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1250"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
I have never had trouble starting my engine, but then I live in the tropics.
Do you have trouble restarting in the air after an extended soaring session?
Regards, Paul H. P.S. Still cannot see the need for wrapping the exhaust.
Have been running my ceramic coated pipes unwrapped for 3 1/2 years with no
trouble and pipes are easy to inspect. My LAME is of the same opinion. Max
temperature that I have seen in the engine space is 51 deg C .
-----Original Message-----
From: Ximango Owners Group (XOG) [mailto:XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM] On
Behalf Of John Lawton
Sent: Wednesday, 23 January 2008 9:44 PM
To: XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM
Subject: Engine mount torque values and preheaters
Greetings Team,
Off hand, does anybody know the torque values for the engine mount bolts?
I'm talking about the DIN cap screw bolts that go through the rubber
mounts.
I've looked through all the documentation that came with my bird, but no
joy.
My engine is sagging a bit up front, causing a slight misalignment (1/4" or
so) between the cowl and the spinner. I'm currently replacing the exhaust
wrap
and since I've got the cowls off I thought I'd replace the front two rubber
bushings, since they seem to be the source of the sag. Any info anyone can
provide regarding the torque values of these bolts is appreciated.
In regard to heaters, I agree. I've always preheated every airplane engine
I've owned, Lycoming, Continental, Jabiru and now Rotax. It makes a world
of
difference on frosty mornings. Prior to the Ximango, I had a Pawnee with an
O-540 and high compression pistons that we used to tow gliders here at my
strip. That Pawnee was head and shoulders stronger than any of the others
I've
flown, but it simply would not start when it was cold. Preheating did the
trick.
It used both an E-Z Heat oil pan heater and a Tannis block heater. I don't
think either is available for the 912S, though.
So, in lieu of that, I use a small, 125W heat pad on the oil tank,
"temporarily" taped to the side of the tank with aluminum tape, then routed
the cord
out of the way of anything that would be hot when the engine is running.
The
pad is not stuck to the side of the tank with it's own adhesive. I peeled
the
adhesive cover on the pad and mated aluminum tape to it, sticky side to
sticky side, then taped it to the side of the oil reservoir using the
aluminum
tape so that it would not be permanent, but it would be reusable. I then
routed
the cord of the 125W pad and zip tied it's plug to the engine mount frame
down near the cowl flap so that it is accessible from the cowl flap when
open,
but it does not interfere with the operation of the cowl flap.
Since there is no oil pan on the 912, I also use a 250W pad mounted to a
piece of .025" aluminum plate which slides in-between the stainless heat
shield
above the muffler and below the engine block. This radiates heat up into
the
engine block and heats it up nicely. Once the engine is hot, unplug both
and
a gentle tug on the cord of the 250W pad removes it through the cowl flap.
I
set these on a timer to come on an hour and a half to two hours before I
want
to fly and, then throw an old sleeping bag over the cowl. The engine and
oil
heat up to about 130F and it starts up like a warm summer day, even at 20F
outside temps.
No need to worry about over heating, as both pads are thermostatically
controlled internally. Both of these heater pads are automotive in origin
and are
available for about $100 total from JC Whitney. Interestingly, they are
identical to the STC'd pads sold for Lycoming and Continental through E-Z
Heat and
Aircraft Spruce, only less than half the price. Here's a link to JC Whitney
and the pads I use:
_http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.C
AT
ENTRY_ID:2005253/p-2005253/N-111+10201+600001648/c-10101_
(http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.C
ATENTRY_ID:2005253/p-2
005253/N-111+10201+600001648/c-10101)
Anyway, hope it helps!
Regards,
John Lawton
Whitwell, TN (TN89)
Ximango #135
PS - If anybody is interested in seeing the Europa I built, N245E, it's in
the February '08 edition of Kitplanes in the "Completions" section.
**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
--
This message has been scanned for viruses and
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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=========================================================================
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 18:10:42 -0800
Reply-To: "Ximango Owners Group (XOG)" <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
Sender: "Ximango Owners Group (XOG)" <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
From: Holliday Obrecht <HollidayObrecht@COPPER.NET>
Subject: Re: Engine mount torque values and preheaters
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
From: <HollidayObrecht@copper.net>
To: "Ximango Owners Group (XOG)" <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
Cc: <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
Subject: Re: Engine mount torque values and preheaters
Date: Wed 01/23/08 08:50 PM
Thanks to everyone who responded with suggestions on my engine starting problem. I have been able to start it cold weather before (30 degrees F) and never had a problem airstarting even after wave soaring. I now have several new things to check and pre-heating is always a good idea!
I checked my manuals for the engine mount bolt torque values and could not find one specifically for it. My manual does say if a specific value is not listed to use: M5 bolt -- 6 NM
M6 bolt -- 10 NM
M8 bolt -- 24 NM
M10 bolt -- 35 NM
Hope this helps.
Holliday
--- energy@WHITSUNDAY.NET.AU wrote:
From: paul harrington <energy@WHITSUNDAY.NET.AU>
To: XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM
Subject: Re: Engine mount torque values and preheaters
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 08:35:31 +1000
I have never had trouble starting my engine, but then I live in the tropics.
Do you have trouble restarting in the air after an extended soaring session?
Regards, Paul H. P.S. Still cannot see the need for wrapping the exhaust.
Have been running my ceramic coated pipes unwrapped for 3 1/2 years with no
trouble and pipes are easy to inspect. My LAME is of the same opinion. Max
temperature that I have seen in the engine space is 51 deg C .
-----Original Message-----
From: Ximango Owners Group (XOG) [mailto:XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM] On
Behalf Of John Lawton
Sent: Wednesday, 23 January 2008 9:44 PM
To: XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM
Subject: Engine mount torque values and preheaters
Greetings Team,
Off hand, does anybody know the torque values for the engine mount bolts?
I'm talking about the DIN cap screw bolts that go through the rubber
mounts.
I've looked through all the documentation that came with my bird, but no
joy.
My engine is sagging a bit up front, causing a slight misalignment (1/4" or
so) between the cowl and the spinner. I'm currently replacing the exhaust
wrap
and since I've got the cowls off I thought I'd replace the front two rubber
bushings, since they seem to be the source of the sag. Any info anyone can
provide regarding the torque values of these bolts is appreciated.
In regard to heaters, I agree. I've always preheated every airplane engine
I've owned, Lycoming, Continental, Jabiru and now Rotax. It makes a world
of
difference on frosty mornings. Prior to the Ximango, I had a Pawnee with an
O-540 and high compression pistons that we used to tow gliders here at my
strip. That Pawnee was head and shoulders stronger than any of the others
I've
flown, but it simply would not start when it was cold. Preheating did the
trick.
It used both an E-Z Heat oil pan heater and a Tannis block heater. I don't
think either is available for the 912S, though.
So, in lieu of that, I use a small, 125W heat pad on the oil tank,
"temporarily" taped to the side of the tank with aluminum tape, then routed
the cord
out of the way of anything that would be hot when the engine is running.
The
pad is not stuck to the side of the tank with it's own adhesive. I peeled
the
adhesive cover on the pad and mated aluminum tape to it, sticky side to
sticky side, then taped it to the side of the oil reservoir using the
aluminum
tape so that it would not be permanent, but it would be reusable. I then
routed
the cord of the 125W pad and zip tied it's plug to the engine mount frame
down near the cowl flap so that it is accessible from the cowl flap when
open,
but it does not interfere with the operation of the cowl flap.
Since there is no oil pan on the 912, I also use a 250W pad mounted to a
piece of .025" aluminum plate which slides in-between the stainless heat
shield
above the muffler and below the engine block. This radiates heat up into
the
engine block and heats it up nicely. Once the engine is hot, unplug both
and
a gentle tug on the cord of the 250W pad removes it through the cowl flap.
I
set these on a timer to come on an hour and a half to two hours before I
want
to fly and, then throw an old sleeping bag over the cowl. The engine and
oil
heat up to about 130F and it starts up like a warm summer day, even at 20F
outside temps.
No need to worry about over heating, as both pads are thermostatically
controlled internally. Both of these heater pads are automotive in origin
and are
available for about $100 total from JC Whitney. Interestingly, they are
identical to the STC'd pads sold for Lycoming and Continental through E-Z
Heat and
Aircraft Spruce, only less than half the price. Here's a link to JC Whitney
and the pads I use:
_http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.C
AT
ENTRY_ID:2005253/p-2005253/N-111+10201+600001648/c-10101_
(http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.C
ATENTRY_ID:2005253/p-2
005253/N-111+10201+600001648/c-10101)
Anyway, hope it helps!
Regards,
John Lawton
Whitwell, TN (TN89)
Ximango #135
PS - If anybody is interested in seeing the Europa I built, N245E, it's in
the February '08 edition of Kitplanes in the "Completions" section.
**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
--
This message has been scanned for viruses and
dangerous content by MailScanner, and is
believed to be clean.
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.10/1240 - Release Date: 23/01/2008
5:47 PM
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.10/1240 - Release Date: 23/01/2008
5:47 PM
=========================================================================
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 09:21:03 EST
Reply-To: "Ximango Owners Group (XOG)" <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
Sender: "Ximango Owners Group (XOG)" <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
From: John Lawton <Thrmlseekr@AOL.COM>
Subject: Re: Engine mount torque values and preheaters
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
In a message dated 1/23/2008 5:36:13 PM Eastern Standard Time,
energy@WHITSUNDAY.NET.AU writes:
****I have never had trouble starting my engine, but then I live in the
tropics.
Do you have trouble restarting in the air after an extended soaring session?
Regards, Paul H. P.S. Still cannot see the need for wrapping the exhaust.
Have been running my ceramic coated pipes unwrapped for 3 1/2 years with no
trouble and pipes are easy to inspect. My LAME is of the same opinion. Max
temperature that I have seen in the engine space is 51 deg C ****
Hello Paul, Holiday, and Hermann,
Paul, I rewrapped my pipes because that is the way they were done when I
bought it. The wrap was on there was just disintegrating. It certainly wasn't
very hard to remove. It pretty much crumbled and fell off into the trash can
when I started picking at it. I don't know if there is any advantage of ceramic
coating versus exhaust wrap, though. I do know that keeping the exhaust
temps up as high as possible as they exit the engine and the exhaust system
improves the through flow and provides increased vacuum for the carby to work
with, in addition to helping keep the under cowl temps down. If the carby's
mixture was set with the wrap in place and then it's removed, it quite possibly
will change the mixture due to the decrease in vacuum caused by the cooling and
expansion, resulting in an increase of back pressure of the exhaust gasses.
Hermann, in regard to the whistle you're hearing, check the seal around the
canopy for leaks. A small leak will whistle like crazy and the volume will
usually increase with speed. We see that one quite a bit on the racing
sailplanes we work on. Like most sailplanes, my canopy has closed cell foam on it all
around and that stuff gets stiff when it's cold and doesn't seal as well as
some open cell foams we use to seal glider canopies. The only problem with
the open cell foams is they don't stand up to UV very well and you wind up
replacing it a couple of times a year. Could also be wing tape if you are hearing
a buzz associated with the whistle. My little flipper vents on the canopy
will whistle, too, if they aren't closed just right.
Holiday, thanks for the info regarding the torque values! I'm going to
consult the Standard Aircraft Practices handbook and our resident A&P/IA for his
thoughts on it, too, before I tear into the mounts.
In regard to lead fouling with the Rotax and 100LL, it's a good idea to
clean out the oil reservoir every oil change. I'm told by a Rotax Guru I know
that if you run 100LL regularly and don't wipe out the lead deposits out of the
bottom of the oil tank periodically when you change your oil, those lead
deposits will build up and eventually be picked up by the oil pick up tube and
redistributed throughout the engine. Not good. This can cause all sorts of
problems. Not saying this is your culprit, but certainly something worth
checking. If you are noticing a lot of lead fouling, this is one place to look. When
I did my first oil change my oil tank had about a half inch of crud in the
bottom. It was basically all lead and clearly the tank had not been cleaned out
in quite a while.
On another note, among other things, I've been working on the fit of my gear
doors over the past couple of days and I've noticed a wear point that
everybody should take a look at. If you look at the main gear doors, there is an
aluminum bracket at the bottom of the shock that holds the upper portion of the
largest gear door on. This door is held at the bottom by a bracket that is
held on by the axle nut. What is happening is the gear door is being allowed to
rotate rearward slightly on the bottom mount as it closes. This is causing
the steel screws that go through the upper aluminum mount to oval out the
holes in the upper aluminum mount. It's a subtle thing that you probably
wouldn't notice unless you look closely at it. My upper brackets were worn to the
point of almost failing on the left side and it was causing a serious
misalignment with the gear doors on both sides. When it's aluminum versus steel, the
steel will win every time.
I think the cure here is to press a fairly large steel rivet into the
bracket, then drill out the rivet sufficiently to allow the screw to pass through.
That way, it's steel on steel and the bracket will be saved and the rivet
should not interfere with the spring or the alignment of the door. If this upper
bracket fails, I think you would very likely loose a gear door. I machined a
small guide of sorts out of Delrin and mounted it on the inside upper rear
of the gear door on both sides to help guide the door as it settles into the
slot molded into the bottom of the wing as it closes. This little guide
contacts the rear of the gear hole in the wing just as the door closes and forces
the door to align with the slot molding into the wing. I think this will cure
the problem of the door wanting to migrate backwards as it closes. This
guide, plus the rivet, should cure the issue of the upper bracket wear.
Chuck, I'll be pinging you off list shortly to order two of these brackets
as soon as I know if that is all I need.
Regards,
John Lawton
Whitwell, TN (TN89)
Ximango #135
**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
=========================================================================
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 13:50:50 -0700
Reply-To: "Ximango Owners Group (XOG)" <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
Sender: "Ximango Owners Group (XOG)" <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
From: "Hermann F. Fasel" <faselh@EMAIL.ARIZONA.EDU>
Subject: Re: Engine mount torque values and preheaters
In-Reply-To: <c52.29dadd89.34c9f8cf@aol.com>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"; format="flowed"
Content-Disposition: inline
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
John,
thank you very much for your detailed suggestions. I will go after the seals
around the canopy.
Where do you buy the foam? Is it standard material or something special? What
kind of tape do you suggest to attach the foam?
Regards,
Hermann
Hermann F. Fasel
Aerospace & Mechanical Engineering
University of Arizona
Tucson, Arizona 85721
Tel.: 520-621-2771
Fax: 520-621-8191
Quoting John Lawton <Thrmlseekr@AOL.COM>:
> In a message dated 1/23/2008 5:36:13 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> energy@WHITSUNDAY.NET.AU writes:
>
> ****I have never had trouble starting my engine, but then I live in the
> tropics.
> Do you have trouble restarting in the air after an extended soaring session?
> Regards, Paul H. P.S. Still cannot see the need for wrapping the exhaust.
> Have been running my ceramic coated pipes unwrapped for 3 1/2 years with no
> trouble and pipes are easy to inspect. My LAME is of the same opinion. Max
> temperature that I have seen in the engine space is 51 deg C ****
>
> Hello Paul, Holiday, and Hermann,
>
> Paul, I rewrapped my pipes because that is the way they were done when I
> bought it. The wrap was on there was just disintegrating. It
> certainly wasn't
> very hard to remove. It pretty much crumbled and fell off into the trash can
> when I started picking at it. I don't know if there is any advantage
> of ceramic
> coating versus exhaust wrap, though. I do know that keeping the exhaust
> temps up as high as possible as they exit the engine and the exhaust system
> improves the through flow and provides increased vacuum for the
> carby to work
> with, in addition to helping keep the under cowl temps down. If the carby's
> mixture was set with the wrap in place and then it's removed, it
> quite possibly
> will change the mixture due to the decrease in vacuum caused by the
> cooling and
> expansion, resulting in an increase of back pressure of the exhaust gasses.
>
> Hermann, in regard to the whistle you're hearing, check the seal around the
> canopy for leaks. A small leak will whistle like crazy and the volume will
> usually increase with speed. We see that one quite a bit on the racing
> sailplanes we work on. Like most sailplanes, my canopy has closed
> cell foam on it all
> around and that stuff gets stiff when it's cold and doesn't seal as well as
> some open cell foams we use to seal glider canopies. The only problem with
> the open cell foams is they don't stand up to UV very well and you wind up
> replacing it a couple of times a year. Could also be wing tape if
> you are hearing
> a buzz associated with the whistle. My little flipper vents on the canopy
> will whistle, too, if they aren't closed just right.
>
> Holiday, thanks for the info regarding the torque values! I'm going to
> consult the Standard Aircraft Practices handbook and our resident
> A&P/IA for his
> thoughts on it, too, before I tear into the mounts.
>
> In regard to lead fouling with the Rotax and 100LL, it's a good idea to
> clean out the oil reservoir every oil change. I'm told by a Rotax Guru I know
> that if you run 100LL regularly and don't wipe out the lead deposits
> out of the
> bottom of the oil tank periodically when you change your oil, those lead
> deposits will build up and eventually be picked up by the oil pick
> up tube and
> redistributed throughout the engine. Not good. This can cause all sorts of
> problems. Not saying this is your culprit, but certainly something worth
> checking. If you are noticing a lot of lead fouling, this is one
> place to look. When
> I did my first oil change my oil tank had about a half inch of crud in the
> bottom. It was basically all lead and clearly the tank had not been
> cleaned out
> in quite a while.
>
> On another note, among other things, I've been working on the fit of my gear
> doors over the past couple of days and I've noticed a wear point that
> everybody should take a look at. If you look at the main gear doors,
> there is an
> aluminum bracket at the bottom of the shock that holds the upper
> portion of the
> largest gear door on. This door is held at the bottom by a bracket that is
> held on by the axle nut. What is happening is the gear door is being
> allowed to
> rotate rearward slightly on the bottom mount as it closes. This is causing
> the steel screws that go through the upper aluminum mount to oval out the
> holes in the upper aluminum mount. It's a subtle thing that you probably
> wouldn't notice unless you look closely at it. My upper brackets
> were worn to the
> point of almost failing on the left side and it was causing a serious
> misalignment with the gear doors on both sides. When it's aluminum
> versus steel, the
> steel will win every time.
>
> I think the cure here is to press a fairly large steel rivet into the
> bracket, then drill out the rivet sufficiently to allow the screw to
> pass through.
> That way, it's steel on steel and the bracket will be saved and the rivet
> should not interfere with the spring or the alignment of the door. If
> this upper
> bracket fails, I think you would very likely loose a gear door. I machined a
> small guide of sorts out of Delrin and mounted it on the inside upper rear
> of the gear door on both sides to help guide the door as it settles into the
> slot molded into the bottom of the wing as it closes. This little guide
> contacts the rear of the gear hole in the wing just as the door
> closes and forces
> the door to align with the slot molding into the wing. I think this
> will cure
> the problem of the door wanting to migrate backwards as it closes. This
> guide, plus the rivet, should cure the issue of the upper bracket wear.
>
> Chuck, I'll be pinging you off list shortly to order two of these brackets
> as soon as I know if that is all I need.
>
> Regards,
>
> John Lawton
> Whitwell, TN (TN89)
> Ximango #135
>
>
>
> **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
> http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
=========================================================================
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2008 08:08:19 +1000
Reply-To: "Ximango Owners Group (XOG)" <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
Sender: "Ximango Owners Group (XOG)" <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
From: paul harrington <energy@WHITSUNDAY.NET.AU>
Subject: Re: Engine mount torque values and preheaters
In-Reply-To: <c52.29dadd89.34c9f8cf@aol.com>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1250"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Hello again all,
I recently purchased a DVD from Aviation Supplies &
Academics: email asa@asa2fly.com. Internet www.asa2fly.com. Titled 'Rotax
912 Engine Introduction: Basic Operation and Maintenance for Pilots and
Mechanics'. A bit of a mouthful but worth its weight in gold. I thoroughly
recommend the publication for keeping your engine in good order. It has a
lot to say about leading, oils and tuning. Regards, Paul H.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ximango Owners Group (XOG) [mailto:XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM] On
Behalf Of John Lawton
Sent: Friday, 25 January 2008 12:21 AM
To: XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM
Subject: Re: Engine mount torque values and preheaters
In a message dated 1/23/2008 5:36:13 PM Eastern Standard Time,
energy@WHITSUNDAY.NET.AU writes:
****I have never had trouble starting my engine, but then I live in the
tropics.
Do you have trouble restarting in the air after an extended soaring
session?
Regards, Paul H. P.S. Still cannot see the need for wrapping the exhaust.
Have been running my ceramic coated pipes unwrapped for 3 1/2 years with no
trouble and pipes are easy to inspect. My LAME is of the same opinion. Max
temperature that I have seen in the engine space is 51 deg C ****
Hello Paul, Holiday, and Hermann,
Paul, I rewrapped my pipes because that is the way they were done when I
bought it. The wrap was on there was just disintegrating. It certainly
wasn't
very hard to remove. It pretty much crumbled and fell off into the trash
can
when I started picking at it. I don't know if there is any advantage of
ceramic
coating versus exhaust wrap, though. I do know that keeping the exhaust
temps up as high as possible as they exit the engine and the exhaust system
improves the through flow and provides increased vacuum for the carby to
work
with, in addition to helping keep the under cowl temps down. If the carby's
mixture was set with the wrap in place and then it's removed, it quite
possibly
will change the mixture due to the decrease in vacuum caused by the cooling
and
expansion, resulting in an increase of back pressure of the exhaust gasses.
Hermann, in regard to the whistle you're hearing, check the seal around the
canopy for leaks. A small leak will whistle like crazy and the volume will
usually increase with speed. We see that one quite a bit on the racing
sailplanes we work on. Like most sailplanes, my canopy has closed cell foam
on it all
around and that stuff gets stiff when it's cold and doesn't seal as well as
some open cell foams we use to seal glider canopies. The only problem with
the open cell foams is they don't stand up to UV very well and you wind up
replacing it a couple of times a year. Could also be wing tape if you are
hearing
a buzz associated with the whistle. My little flipper vents on the canopy
will whistle, too, if they aren't closed just right.
Holiday, thanks for the info regarding the torque values! I'm going to
consult the Standard Aircraft Practices handbook and our resident A&P/IA for
his
thoughts on it, too, before I tear into the mounts.
In regard to lead fouling with the Rotax and 100LL, it's a good idea to
clean out the oil reservoir every oil change. I'm told by a Rotax Guru I
know
that if you run 100LL regularly and don't wipe out the lead deposits out of
the
bottom of the oil tank periodically when you change your oil, those lead
deposits will build up and eventually be picked up by the oil pick up tube
and
redistributed throughout the engine. Not good. This can cause all sorts of
problems. Not saying this is your culprit, but certainly something worth
checking. If you are noticing a lot of lead fouling, this is one place to
look. When
I did my first oil change my oil tank had about a half inch of crud in the
bottom. It was basically all lead and clearly the tank had not been cleaned
out
in quite a while.
On another note, among other things, I've been working on the fit of my
gear
doors over the past couple of days and I've noticed a wear point that
everybody should take a look at. If you look at the main gear doors, there
is an
aluminum bracket at the bottom of the shock that holds the upper portion of
the
largest gear door on. This door is held at the bottom by a bracket that is
held on by the axle nut. What is happening is the gear door is being
allowed to
rotate rearward slightly on the bottom mount as it closes. This is causing
the steel screws that go through the upper aluminum mount to oval out the
holes in the upper aluminum mount. It's a subtle thing that you probably
wouldn't notice unless you look closely at it. My upper brackets were worn
to the
point of almost failing on the left side and it was causing a serious
misalignment with the gear doors on both sides. When it's aluminum versus
steel, the
steel will win every time.
I think the cure here is to press a fairly large steel rivet into the
bracket, then drill out the rivet sufficiently to allow the screw to pass
through.
That way, it's steel on steel and the bracket will be saved and the rivet
should not interfere with the spring or the alignment of the door. If this
upper
bracket fails, I think you would very likely loose a gear door. I machined
a
small guide of sorts out of Delrin and mounted it on the inside upper rear
of the gear door on both sides to help guide the door as it settles into
the
slot molded into the bottom of the wing as it closes. This little guide
contacts the rear of the gear hole in the wing just as the door closes and
forces
the door to align with the slot molding into the wing. I think this will
cure
the problem of the door wanting to migrate backwards as it closes. This
guide, plus the rivet, should cure the issue of the upper bracket wear.
Chuck, I'll be pinging you off list shortly to order two of these brackets
as soon as I know if that is all I need.
Regards,
John Lawton
Whitwell, TN (TN89)
Ximango #135
**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
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=========================================================================
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2008 09:21:57 -0500
Reply-To: "Ximango Owners Group (XOG)" <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
Sender: "Ximango Owners Group (XOG)" <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
From: Lockwood Supply <lockwood@DIGITAL.NET>
Subject: Re: Engine mount torque values and preheaters
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="windows-1250";
reply-type=original
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Also available from Lockwood Aviation Supply, Inc., our techs actually do
the maintenance on the DVD.
----- Original Message -----
From: "paul harrington" <energy@WHITSUNDAY.NET.AU>
To: <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 5:08 PM
Subject: Re: Engine mount torque values and preheaters
> Hello again all,
> I recently purchased a DVD from Aviation Supplies &
> Academics: email asa@asa2fly.com. Internet www.asa2fly.com. Titled 'Rotax
> 912 Engine Introduction: Basic Operation and Maintenance for Pilots and
> Mechanics'. A bit of a mouthful but worth its weight in gold. I thoroughly
> recommend the publication for keeping your engine in good order. It has a
> lot to say about leading, oils and tuning. Regards, Paul H.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ximango Owners Group (XOG) [mailto:XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM] On
> Behalf Of John Lawton
> Sent: Friday, 25 January 2008 12:21 AM
> To: XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM
> Subject: Re: Engine mount torque values and preheaters
>
> In a message dated 1/23/2008 5:36:13 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> energy@WHITSUNDAY.NET.AU writes:
>
> ****I have never had trouble starting my engine, but then I live in the
> tropics.
> Do you have trouble restarting in the air after an extended soaring
> session?
> Regards, Paul H. P.S. Still cannot see the need for wrapping the
> exhaust.
> Have been running my ceramic coated pipes unwrapped for 3 1/2 years with
> no
> trouble and pipes are easy to inspect. My LAME is of the same opinion.
> Max
> temperature that I have seen in the engine space is 51 deg C ****
>
> Hello Paul, Holiday, and Hermann,
>
> Paul, I rewrapped my pipes because that is the way they were done when I
> bought it. The wrap was on there was just disintegrating. It certainly
> wasn't
> very hard to remove. It pretty much crumbled and fell off into the trash
> can
> when I started picking at it. I don't know if there is any advantage of
> ceramic
> coating versus exhaust wrap, though. I do know that keeping the exhaust
> temps up as high as possible as they exit the engine and the exhaust
> system
>
> improves the through flow and provides increased vacuum for the carby to
> work
> with, in addition to helping keep the under cowl temps down. If the
> carby's
>
> mixture was set with the wrap in place and then it's removed, it quite
> possibly
> will change the mixture due to the decrease in vacuum caused by the
> cooling
> and
> expansion, resulting in an increase of back pressure of the exhaust
> gasses.
>
> Hermann, in regard to the whistle you're hearing, check the seal around
> the
>
> canopy for leaks. A small leak will whistle like crazy and the volume will
> usually increase with speed. We see that one quite a bit on the racing
> sailplanes we work on. Like most sailplanes, my canopy has closed cell
> foam
> on it all
> around and that stuff gets stiff when it's cold and doesn't seal as well
> as
>
> some open cell foams we use to seal glider canopies. The only problem
> with
> the open cell foams is they don't stand up to UV very well and you wind
> up
> replacing it a couple of times a year. Could also be wing tape if you are
> hearing
> a buzz associated with the whistle. My little flipper vents on the canopy
> will whistle, too, if they aren't closed just right.
>
> Holiday, thanks for the info regarding the torque values! I'm going to
> consult the Standard Aircraft Practices handbook and our resident A&P/IA
> for
> his
> thoughts on it, too, before I tear into the mounts.
>
> In regard to lead fouling with the Rotax and 100LL, it's a good idea to
> clean out the oil reservoir every oil change. I'm told by a Rotax Guru I
> know
> that if you run 100LL regularly and don't wipe out the lead deposits out
> of
> the
> bottom of the oil tank periodically when you change your oil, those lead
> deposits will build up and eventually be picked up by the oil pick up
> tube
> and
> redistributed throughout the engine. Not good. This can cause all sorts
> of
> problems. Not saying this is your culprit, but certainly something worth
> checking. If you are noticing a lot of lead fouling, this is one place to
> look. When
> I did my first oil change my oil tank had about a half inch of crud in
> the
> bottom. It was basically all lead and clearly the tank had not been
> cleaned
> out
> in quite a while.
>
> On another note, among other things, I've been working on the fit of my
> gear
> doors over the past couple of days and I've noticed a wear point that
> everybody should take a look at. If you look at the main gear doors, there
> is an
> aluminum bracket at the bottom of the shock that holds the upper portion
> of
> the
> largest gear door on. This door is held at the bottom by a bracket that is
> held on by the axle nut. What is happening is the gear door is being
> allowed to
> rotate rearward slightly on the bottom mount as it closes. This is
> causing
>
> the steel screws that go through the upper aluminum mount to oval out the
> holes in the upper aluminum mount. It's a subtle thing that you probably
> wouldn't notice unless you look closely at it. My upper brackets were
> worn
> to the
> point of almost failing on the left side and it was causing a serious
> misalignment with the gear doors on both sides. When it's aluminum versus
> steel, the
> steel will win every time.
>
> I think the cure here is to press a fairly large steel rivet into the
> bracket, then drill out the rivet sufficiently to allow the screw to pass
> through.
> That way, it's steel on steel and the bracket will be saved and the rivet
> should not interfere with the spring or the alignment of the door. If
> this
> upper
> bracket fails, I think you would very likely loose a gear door. I
> machined
> a
> small guide of sorts out of Delrin and mounted it on the inside upper
> rear
> of the gear door on both sides to help guide the door as it settles into
> the
> slot molded into the bottom of the wing as it closes. This little guide
> contacts the rear of the gear hole in the wing just as the door closes
> and
> forces
> the door to align with the slot molding into the wing. I think this will
> cure
> the problem of the door wanting to migrate backwards as it closes. This
> guide, plus the rivet, should cure the issue of the upper bracket wear.
>
> Chuck, I'll be pinging you off list shortly to order two of these
> brackets
> as soon as I know if that is all I need.
>
> Regards,
>
> John Lawton
> Whitwell, TN (TN89)
> Ximango #135
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