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Touring Motor Gliders Association (TMGA)
  • We use thin, self adhesive weather-strip available at any home  improvement
    store such as Lowe's, Home Depot, etc. Ace Hardware has good foam,  too. I
    particularly like the Ace Hardware brand foam because it has a thin  film of
    cellulose.

    ======================================================

    Date:         Fri, 25 Jan 2008 08:09:35 EST
    Reply-To:     "Ximango Owners Group (XOG)" <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
    Sender:       "Ximango Owners Group (XOG)" <XIMANGO@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
    From:         John Lawton <Thrmlseekr@AOL.COM>
    Subject:      Foam seals on canopies
    MIME-Version: 1.0
    Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
    Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

    In a message dated 1/24/2008 3:51:12 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
    faselh@EMAIL.ARIZONA.EDU writes:

    >>>>>Where do you buy the foam? Is it standard material  or something
    special? What
    kind of tape do you suggest to attach the  foam?<<<<<<
     
    Hello Hermann,
     
    We use thin, self adhesive weather-strip available at any home  improvement
    store such as Lowe's, Home Depot, etc. Ace Hardware has good foam,  too. I
    particularly like the Ace Hardware brand foam because it has a thin  film of
    cellulose between the adhesive and the foam that makes removal  easier. The gray
    Ace stuff seems to be a bit more UV resistant than  the tan stuff sold by Home
    Depot, too.
     
     Get the thinnest you can find, i.e., 3/16" or thinner, open cell.  1/8"
    really works well, but is sometimes hard to find.  If you use anything  thicker or
    the closed cell variety, you run the risk of affecting the fit of  your
    canopy when closed. Apply when it's warm, say 60F or above. If you don't  get these
    sorts of temps, you can heat the mating surface slightly where  the foam is
    to be applied with a hair dryer or heat gun.
     
    You probably won't need the foam after temps warm up and the  existing closed
    cell foam becomes pliable again. Just peel off the open cell  foam when the
    temps warm up when you're done with it. Any residual adhesive  left behind will
    come off easily with acetone. Even though it's not  pretty, I would stick it
    to the fuselage, opposite the closed cell foam on the  canopy rail. You could
    stick it to the existing closed cell foam on  the canopy rail to keep it out
    of sight, but we've found that it doesn't stick  very well to the closed cell
    foam and usually peels off in a matter of a  few days, no matter how much prep
    you do.
     
    Wipe the surface where the foam is to be applied with acetone or  denatured
    alcohol before application to remove any grease or wax. Be careful if  you use
    acetone to keep it far away from the canopy itself. Acetone will harm  the
    Plexiglas canopy by making a frosty spot anywhere it contacts it.  If you do
    happen to get a drop on the canopy and the resulting frost, you  can sand it out
    (LIGHTLY) with 1200 then a light buff with plastic buffing  rouge will make it
    go away in most cases, but it's best to not go there.  Denatured alcohol will
    not harm the canopy. Neither acetone or denatured  alcohol will harm the
    finish, gel coat or urethane, although I wouldn't  leave a rag soaked with acetone
    sitting on any painted or gel coat surface  for long because after a while it
    will soften the paint or gel coat. Denatured  alcohol will not do this. Wiping
    the painted or gel coated surfaces with acetone  or denatured alcohol is
    fine, though.
     
    You can also use this type foam to seal up the fuel access doors and gear 
    doors, both of which if not sealed are sources for drag because of the pressure 
    differential between inside and outside the wing when at flying speeds.
     
    Anyway, hope it helps!
     
    Regards,
     
    John  Lawton
    Whitwell, TN (TN89)
    Ximango #135


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