Abstract: I have recently bought a half share in a Ximango 200 serial number 077 and have to replace the 80Hp Rotax motor as it has run out of calender life. I wish to replace it with a 100 Hp Rotax.
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Thread : 80 to 100Hp Rotax installation
Started at 15th-December-2011 06:37 AM by Raytol
Visit at http://forum.xopa.org/showthread.php?t=110
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Date : 15th-December-2011 06:37 AM
Thread Title : 80 to 100Hp Rotax installation
Has anyone else done this swap?
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Date : 15th-December-2011 03:25 PM
There's really not much difference between the 912 and the 912s externally, except for really older 912 engines vs. new 912s engines. Off the top of my head you might notice you have a different fuel pump on your old 912 vs. what is used now on the 912s. Fuel pump vendors have changed a couple of times in recent years. There have been some other subtle changes, but you'd have to look close and know what you're looking at to tell. The new engine should bolt right up. Probably a good time to renew the Barry mounts.
My 200s (#135, circa 2002-03) has the battery on the firewall, center top. The CG is a bit forward, most noticeable at thermaling speeds, but not worth the trouble of moving the battery, IMO. Aeromot moved the battery back to underneath the baggage area in the 300s (914 version), but that was because the 914 is heavier than the 912/912s. Claudio Vienna (owner of Aeromot) told me that they had to add about 12 lbs of lead to the firewall after the battery was moved to correct the CG. If you do decide to move the battery I would make sure your new engine has the new anti-kickback circuitry in the ignition boxes. Longer battery leads means more voltage drop between the battery and the starter. So, if you don't have the new ignition boxes you might be inviting some starter kickback issues.
Otherwise, it should be pretty straightforward.
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Date : 18th-December-2011 12:34 AM
Thread Title : Thank you for the reply John
So far, we have taken the old motor out and sent the heat shroud ( I took a mold off it first) to the Rotax importer. We had to specify the type of sump for the engine mounts ( if the bolts were seperate or if one bolt went right through the sump) we had the separate bolts.
The new motor has arrived! Gee, they are pretty.That was really great service from Bert Flood Imports. Even the prop is back from it's "P" modification. Looks like Christmas is working on Ximango time!
One of the common threads of advice is to replace the engine mount rubbers. Are the "Lord" mounts better than the 'Barry" MOUNTS?
Both of the other Ximango's at my airport have replaced the oil pressure sender with a different type and guage after having trouble with the original. Any comments would be appreciated.
I'll take your advice John, and leave the battery where it is on the firewall.
I will fill the tailwheel with a soft rubber compound to help Cof G and stop it going flat.
Best Wishes to all for Christmas.
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Date : 18th-December-2011 03:41 PM
I don't have any experience with Lord's version of the shock mount on the Ximango, although I have used Lord products on other engines and they make good stuff. I doubt you'd go wrong with either choice. I renewed my mounts last annual and it was easy, even without removing the engine. I replaced Barry mounts with Barry mounts because I couldn't find the Ximango listed in the FAA/PMA approved aircraft list for Lord or Barry mounts, so I went back with what was on it to avoid 337 paperwork. Prior to replacing I had a 3/8" misalignment with the spinner/cowl. Now, it's right on the money.
The general consensus on OP senders in the home built community here (which uses a lot of Rotax and Jabiru engines) is VDO senders are the best. When I went to Rotax school for the 912/914 at Lockwood they recommended VDO. I replaced the Chinese knock-off OP sender that came on the Jaibiru I put in my Europa XS with a VDO about 5 years ago and it's worked flawlessly. My Ximango has a VDO OP sender with a Westach gauge. Seems to work well for a steam gauge.
Once you get the engine installed familiarize yourself with the oil purge procedure (Rotax SI-912-018). If you subscribe the Rotax Owner's Group they have videos available that show how it's done. There are also some aftermarket videos available that show this and other maintenance procedures for the 912/914. I cannot adequately stress how important the oil purge procedure is, especially on a new engine. It's also important to fill the oil filter with oil prior to installing it and starting the purge. I use a power purge system that uses 15 psi shop air hooked to the oil tank to help push the oil into the journals and heads and push the air out. Some people call this "burping" the engine because of the noise it makes when the air is pushed out of the engine and into the oil tank. Even with the power purge it wills till take 50-60 revolutions of the prop to adequately purge the oil system of air. The 912/914 uses hydraulic lifters and it's really important that you get the air out of the oil system to prevent collapsing a lifter(s). Rotax has a procedure in the Heavy Maintenance Manual that details how to check the lifters for proper oil purge. On a new engine I wouldn't hesitate to pop the valve covers off and put a few drops of oil on the rocker arms and valve guides prior to the first start up. Use caution when you reinstall the valve covers. Steel bolt/aluminum head. The bolt will win if you get carried away with the torque.
Another thing you'll have to do is balance the carbs. There's a procedure in the Line Maintenance Manual for the carb balance. BTW, both the Heavy Maintenance Manual and the Line Maintenance Manual are available free on line and I think video of most of the common procedures are available on Youtube.
Carb balance is a two part procedure, mechanical alignment first, then vacuum balance with the engine running at various speeds by adjusting the throttle cables/sheaths. It's not hard, but it does take a set of gauges and a bit of patience. It's also nice if it's a warm day, too, because you'll be standing in the prop blast for a good bit of it. Carb balance is something that really needs to be done periodically. Failure to keep the carbs in balance can result in A LOT of excess vibration which can lead to crankcase fretting and other avoidable troubles. So, when in doubt, sync 'em up! I have the standard "steam" gauge carb balance setup, but there are electronic units available that accomplish the same goal. I've used both and prefer the steam gauge type, but I think it's more a matter of personal preference. (old habits die hard)
If you run leaded fuel you will need to change the oil more frequently. Lead in the fuel is picked up in the oil. If you use an oil that has lead scavenging properties (as recommended by Rotax) that lead is then deposited in the oil tank. If left alone it will build up and eventually get sucked back into the engine and deposited in all the wrong places. So, if you run leaded fuel change your oil every 25 hours, use TCP or similar lead scavenging additive and/or the correct oil. If you run leaded fuel you'll also need to remove the oil tank and wipe out the lead residue at every oil change. Better yet, if you can avoid using leaded fuel entirely. Rotax has specific oils and additives they recommend which will help scavenge the lead from the oil. There is a Rotax SI that has a listing of approved oils. Find the most current version, as there have been several SI's issued over the years concerning approved oil types. I run Valvoline Duralube now in my engine. Previously, I ran Pennzoil 3888, but it was discontinued. Most on the approved list are semi-synthetics of motorcycle origin. These type motorcycle oils are used because the crankcase oil also lubricates the reduction gear assembly, much the same way modern motorcycles use crankcase oil to lubricate direct drive shafts and drive gears.
Lastly, familiarize yourself with the Rotax break in procedure and follow it verbatim. Early on you're trying to get the rings to seat. So, it's very important that you follow their suggestions, rather than just "kick a tire and light the fire".
In any event, I know it sounds like a lot, but after you do the procedures a few times and get familiar it becomes very easy. The Rotax is a fine little engine, but it has to be broken in and maintained according to Rotax guidelines. If you try to maintain it like you would a Lycoming or Continental you're asking for trouble.
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Date : 19th-December-2011 10:37 AM
Thread Title : Thanks again John
I really appreciate your input and will follow your and the Rotax manual to the letter. My partner and I have already agreed to use only 100LL Avgas in her as we have a distrust for the fuel supplied around here. My last car's gasoline tank developed a fungus that is supposed to only live in Avtur/kerosine!
I certainly have a lot to learn about the Rotax motor as I have a Limbach in my Grob 109 that I have owned for over 4 years now.
The VDO OP senders and guages seem to have nod from all the experienced Rotax people I have contacted.
Do Rotax or you have a diagram of your carb balancing equipment and power 'burper'?
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Date : 19th-December-2011 01:00 PM
Here's the oil priming kit I use:
Rotaxparts.net and 800-Airwolf specializes in Rotax Parts for Ultralight and amature built aircraft. We ship worldwide and offer services in English and EspaÒol. We ship our rotax parts world wide. - 800-Airwolf Rotax Parts Online Store features Ultr (http://rotaxparts.net/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=1401)
Here's the carb balance kit from California Power Systems website:
Rotaxparts.net and 800-Airwolf specializes in Rotax Parts for Ultralight and amature built aircraft. We ship worldwide and offer services in English and EspaÒol. We ship our rotax parts world wide. - 800-Airwolf Rotax Parts Online Store features Ultr (http://www.rotaxparts.net/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=1297)
Here's a different version of the carb balance tool from Lockwood (page 166, right side) This is the carb balance kit I have ($10 cheaper) I think the only real difference between this one and the California Power Systems version is the gauges used. The small, inline valves are used to damp the vacuum oscillations. Their purpose is covered in the instructions:
http://www.lockwood-aviation.com/Catalog2011-2012.pdf
As I mentioned previously, there are also some electronic units available that do the same thing as the analog balance kits, but I don't have a link.
One note of caution when using Rotax manuals, make sure you are looking at the manual section that pertains to your specific engine. Rotax does a great job of documenting everything, but their system is a bit cryptic and takes some getting used to. (and I'm saying this as an Engineer and Technical Writer). There have been several major engine revisions over the years. So, make sure whatever procedure you're using pertains to your specific equipment. This is particularly true of the electrical and ignition systems.
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Date : 21st-December-2011 10:07 AM
I will check to see if anyone else around here has this equipment. If not, then I will buy it and offer it to others.
After more consultation with the other Ximango owners on this airport I am about to order a "Westach" combined oil temp and oil pressure guage from Aircraft Spruce. I will have to run an extra wire through the firewall but they have not had any trouble with this setup. They both had a lot of trouble with the original supplied parts! It must be horrible flying with no oil pressure especially if you are over "tiger country" or a long way from home!
I would rather have analog equipment for this sort of testing, digital messes up at the speed of light!
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