Leaderboard

Yes, there is hope for us wimps. I am 5'7", 230 lbs. and 73 years old and yes I have problems opening and closing the wings so I built a simple lever system and it is very doable now. It consists of a 10' carbon tube (what I had from an old delta hang glider) two wing shaped plywood pieces, a couple ratchet straps and two 25 lb. bar bell weights. The system reduces the lift weight from 30 lbs at the wing tip to about half that. My concern was what if it should slip while in the vertical position? I glued a rubberized material to the surface next to the wing for protection of the wing but when the ratchet straps are tightened nothing moves. The second issue was how far out could I go and not hit the ground when in the vertical position? Further than I thought but a quick measurement on the first lift answered the question and I have sense put stops on the tube so when I mount it no further measurement are required. Steve R.

It is admittedly difficult and also scary because (I have always assumed, at least) if you ever drop one then that’s the end of that airframe. As a CFI I have taught a few people how to do it as safely as possible. Straight into the wind, of course, and always with the mains chocked. And you can’t have ambiguity at the top, you have to commit to it going over. And dry hands, of course, and I’ve considered using sticky mechanics gloves. When training, I put huge wedge pads inboard and a spotter outboard. As a sailor, my first thought was to “rig a preventer,” but there’s no good attachment point. It’s a big like swinging up onto a horse. Very hard to do the first time. You can call me if you want. P.S.: Indoors with an expert and a spotter is the safest way to practice. P.P.S.: A machinist could make a fitting for the wingtip attachment point and then you could use a block and tackle, maybe, if you had something overhead. A lot of complexity and stuff, but still nothing compared to folding the wings on my HK36TC-100! If you're on FB, I posted an unfolding video.

Look through the picture gallery. There was an Ximango owner a while back who had trouble folding and unfolding the wings. So, he came up with a tripod/block and tackle system to help. I don't recall his name, but I do recall seeing the pictures here.

I am 82 yrs old ,165 pounds and I can open and close the wings. I carefully turn the fuselage directly into the wind. I keep my feet directly under my hips and my back very straight while I walk the wing toward the hinge.

No, just call Lockwood Aviation in Florida. 863-655-5100. Tell them what you have and they'll send you what you need. Basically, it's a short, molded hose and a meter or so of metric sized radiator hose that you'll cut into the pieces you need to replace your old hoses. It ain't cheap, but it's very good quality stuff and Rotax approved. One other thing I thought of regarding the hose clamps is Rotax recommends using "spring clamps" or "Corbin style" clamps as opposed to worm drive hose clamps on the radiator hoses. Here's what they look like: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Tools-Garage-and-Equipment/Hose-Clamp-Universal-Type/_/N-25vt?filterByKeyWord=Spring+hose+clamps&fromString=search The reason is because the aluminum fittings that the hoses plug onto expand and contract as the engine heats up and cools down. The worm drive style clamps don't allow for this expansion and end up crushing the hose, which will eventually leak. The spring clamps allow the aluminum fittings to expand and contract while keeping even pressure on the hose throughout the range. There's a tool to use on this style clamp. You can get one at any major auto parts store for around $30. The easy to reach clamps you can probably get with needle nose pliers or a small pair of Channel Locks, but to get at some of the clamps you'll almost have to have one of these tools. Here's what the tool looks like: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-Hose-clamp-pliers/_/N-26on?itemIdentifier=607069_0_0_